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The working-class Pilsen neighborhood on the Lower West Side of Chicago is one of the city’s most interesting areas to explore.
Introduction to Pilsen
Pilsen named after the city of Plzeň in the Czech Republic. Historically, the area was inhabited by Czech immigrants in the 19th century along with small groups of other Eastern European nationalities who joined them. They replaced German and Irish immigrants who came in the mid-19th century.
Today, Pilsen is the center of the Mexican community in Chicago. In the 1960s, many Mexican immigrants and citizens of Mexican descent were displaced by the construction of the University of Illinois at Chicago in the Near West Side. Several chose Pilsen as their new home, altering the face of the neighborhood forever.
The neighborhood is still evolving and has even changed dramatically in recent years. Artists began to flock to the area and several art galleries opened up around 18th and Halsted. Hipsters began to move in shortly after. Pilsen is literally an artist’s canvas and features some of the best murals, graffiti, and other street art to be found in Chicago. There are also plenty of good restaurants.
Getting to Pilsen
If you don’t have your own transportation, Pilsen is best accessed with the Pink Line. There are stops at 18th Street and Damen Ave.
National Museum of Mexican Art
The star attraction of Pilsen is the National Museum of Mexican Art. Its galleries feature works of art by Mexican and Mexican-American artists. Admission to the museum is free and it’s open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm (as of September 2024).
Sculptures, paintings, posters, and more can be found throughout the museum, ranging from religious and more serious to abstract and satyrical. An interesting artifact on display is a shirt and sweater vest worn by activist César Chávez (1927-1993) on his final visit to the museum in 1993.
I enjoyed the museum very much. Many of the pieces I found were quite moving and powerful. I spent about 45 minutes going through the galleries and was very impressed. The most interesting work in my opinion is Sun-Mad by Ester Hernández. From three different points of view, you see three different images on three different sets of panels.
Churches in Pilsen
Pilsen has been heavily Catholic throughout its history, and there’s no shortage of beautiful Catholic churches. Unfortunately, dwindling membership numbers and lack of funds have forced some historic parishes to close.
Saint Adalbert’s
One of those churches is Saint Adalbert Roman Catholic Church. This historic church was built between 1912 and 1914 by Polish immigrants and has hosted services in English, Spanish, and Polish.
Unfortunately, the church was controversially scheduled to close on July 1, 2016. The parishioners desperately tried to save it but over US$3 million were needed for repairs, especially the 185 foot towers. Saint Adalbert’s held its last mass on July 14, 2019. A deal to sell the church to developers fell through shortly after. On August 8, 2023, the church was granted preliminary historic landmark status.
Saint Vitus Catholic Church
Saint Vitus is another historic church that closed in 1990. It opened in 1897 and the complex contained a rectory built in 1898 and a school built in 1902. It’s located at 1814 S. Paulina and has hosted the Guadalupano Family Center since 1994.
Saint Pius V
Of the churches that still operate, Saint Pius V Roman Catholic Church is located on Ashland and 19th. It’s typically open daily from 7am to 8pm. The church was completed in 1892 and founded by Irish immigrants.
Saint Procopius Roman Catholic Church
Another historic church is Saint Procopius on 18th Street. The parish was founded by Czech immigrants in 1875 and the church opened in 1883.
Saint Paul’s Catholic Church
Further southwest at Hoyne and 22nd Place is Saint Paul’s. It was founded by German immigrants in 1876 and built between 1886 and 1898 as the first Gothic church in America.
Thalia Hall
Thalia Hall sits across the street from Saint Procopius. Built in 1892 by Czech immigrant John Dusek, the hall was modeled after the Prague Opera House. It was a very important community center and theatre for over 70 years before being closed from the 1960s to 2013. It has been reopened as a concert and private event venue.
Murals in Pilsen
Pilsen is an artist’s canvas and features some of the best murals in Chicago. There are countless murals and other street art waiting to be discovered, and they can be found all over the neighborhood.
18th Street Pink Line Stop
The murals in Pilsen begin with the 18th Street Pink Line stop. They show the potential of the neighborhood with a colorful platform and stairway leading up to the tracks.
18th and Wood
One of the murals at 18th and Wood has a wall featuring important Latina women. Further down are some cowboys. A building at 19th and Wood also has an interesting mural.
Ex-St. Vitus Catholic Church
The former St. Vitus Catholic Church has several nice murals at its base.
Cooper Dual Language Academy
Cooper Dual Language Academy has a row of mosaic panels across the entire face of the building. Art students at the school created the panels which portray important Mexican and Mexican-American historic figures.
19th and Ashland
The corner of 19th and Ashland has some impressive and realistic murals.
18th Street
Along 18th Street, there are some murals on the face and sides of some buildings.
A building on the corner of 18th and Paulina contains a mosaic dedicated to J-Def, a local artist murdered in a case of mistaken gang identity. He had just turned 19 the day before when he was killed on July 25, 2009.
Allport between 16th and 18th
A couple of interesting murals in Pilsen sit along Allport between 16th and 18th Streets.
Railroad Embankment along 16th Street
The railroad embankment along 16th Street is another great place to spot murals. I walked from east to west starting at Allport and ending at Wood.
Between Allport and Blue Island
Between Loomis and Laflin
Between Laflin and Ashland
Between Ashland and Paulina
Between Paulina and Wood
Where to Eat in Pilsen
Pilsen is one of the best places to find authentic Mexican food in Chicago. Many of the restaurants are located along 18th Street. I’ve tried a few different places and I hope to go back for more. There are plenty on my list of Chicago restaurants I’d like to try.
Café Jumping Bean
I really enjoyed Café Jumping Bean. This tiny place on 18th Street serves great coffee and pastries as well as excellent sandwiches. I stopped in for lunch and had a delicious turkey sandwich.
Cantón Regio
If you’re looking for a heartier option, try Cantón Regio. It’s a Mexican restaurant with a rustic setting. They serve traditional specialties with a slight modern twist as well as a small selection of steaks. It was opened right across the street from Nuevo León by the same owners. The food is great, service is good, and prices are fair. I shared fajitas with Marisol and we were both very happy with our meal. Just be aware, it’s cash only.
Nuevo León (Permanently Closed)
I’ve been to a lot of Mexican restaurants in Chicago during my life. In my opinion, Nuevo León is the standard for Mexican food in the city. It’s always among the restaurants recommended by my Mexican friends. Besides, if you’re in a Mexican restaurant in Chicago and you’re at one of the only tables not speaking Spanish, you’re probably in the right place. I loved my first experience and I kept going back for more!
Nuevo León has been in business since 1962. For three generations, the owners have used the same family recipes, including homemade tortillas, since the restaurant was opened. (Note: Nuevo León burned down in December 2015 and never reopened.)
My Visit to Nuevo León
I took my cousins and a couple others to Nuevo León for an authentic Mexican meal during my trip home to Chicago. They were excited from the moment they saw the colorful building.
When we walked in, the place was so packed we had to wait a few minutes for a table. Our server, who spoke very little English, asked us to follow her and wait as they cleared off our table. We sat down and within seconds we had nachos and salsa, water, and a small appetizer.
The menu has lots of traditional home-cooked Mexican dishes as well as familiar “comfort” foods like tacos and flautas, which is what the majority of us ordered. We also had appetizers of guacamole and an order of queso con chorizo (melted cheese with chorizo) which was incredible. For the main meal, my cousins had flautas and I had a combination plate. Everyone was very happy with the food. In the end, there were no complaints about the price. My only warning – they accept cash only.
