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As a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, one can’t visit Popayán without trying its unique local cuisine. The locals sent us to Mora Castilla, a small and simple restaurant in the historic city center that many regard as the best place to sample payanés delicacies.
We arrived at 10am sharp just as the doors were opening. We had to wait a few minutes for the owner to prep, but he was very friendly and excited about our eagerness to try these special dishes.
Tamales de Pipián
We started with tamales de pipián, which are made with cornmeal and potato and served with a spicy peanut sauce, similar to what you would find in Thai cooking. They were accompanied by salpicón payanés, a frozen concoction of mora (blackberries) with some lulo and guanabana mixed in. Both were delicious.
Empanadas de Pipián
Next came empanadas de pipián. These tiny empanadas came 10 to an order, were filled with potatoes, and served with the same spicy peanut sauce. Again, excellent.
Carantantas
Finally, we finished off by sampling carantantas. They were like very thin corn tortillas and were served with hogao, a Colombian sauce made with tomatoes, onions, and garlic sautéed together. It wasn’t my favorite part of the meal but they were interesting to try.
Conclusion
Mora Castilla is highly recommended to anyone visiting Popayán. It was a pleasure to eat these tasty treats, but the owner made the experience much more enjoyable with his explanations and enthusiasm.
