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Michigan Avenue is one of the great streets in America. It runs through the heart of Chicago and once bordered Lake Michigan.
Brief History of Michigan Avenue
Until the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, Michigan Avenue was known as Michigan Boulevard. It was mainly residential and bordered Lake Michigan. All of the buildings between Congress and the Chicago River were destroyed during the fire. The debris was used to fill in the lake immediately east of Michigan Avenue creating the space for the parkland we see today. The lake is now over a ¼ mile east of its original shoreline.
Nowadays, Michigan Avenue is lined with many historic buildings. They create much of the city’s beautiful skyline and are occupied by offices, hotels, universities, cultural institutions, and even some museums.
Organization of This Post
The stretch of the road covered in this post is the original Michigan Avenue, which borders what is now Grant Park and ends at the Chicago River. I’ll start from the south at Roosevelt Road and work my way north to the Chicago River. I’ll only cover the buildings on the west side of the street. Grant Park, Millennium Park and the Art Institute aren’t covered here. Also not included is the stretch Michigan Avenue north of the river known as the Magnificent Mile.
Hilton Chicago
First of all, occupying the entire block between 8th and Balbo is the massive Hilton Chicago. This hotel was originally opened as the Stevens Hotel in 1927 and was the largest hotel in the world. It was designed by Holabird and Roche and had 3,000 rooms. The Stevens family went bankrupt and the hotel changed hands a few times, including being property of the US Army who used it as a barracks during WWII. Conrad Hilton (1887-1979) bought it in 1945 and redesigned it by enlarging the rooms and cutting capacity to about 1,500 rooms.
The Hilton has some of the best convention and event space in Chicago. It’s worth popping in to see the elegant Grand Ballroom and the foyer leading into it. I’ve attended a few events there and the hotel is also one of the few Chicago hotels I’ve been a guest at. Every event and stay has been a memorable experience.
Spertus Institute
The Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies, housed in a gorgeous contemporary glass building, is a block north. It presents different programs throughout the year. The award-winning building opened in November 2007 and was designed by Krueck Sexton Partners. The façade consists of 726 individual pieces of glass in 556 different shapes.
Museum of Contemporary Photography
Next door to the Spertus, is the Museum of Contemporary Photography hosted by Columbia College. The museum was closed when I walked by, but it’s typically open daily. Admission is free (as of April 2024).
Auditorium Building
The Auditorium Building, a couple blocks north at the corner of Congress Parkway, was built in 1889 by Louis Sullivan (1856-1924) and Dankmar Adler (1844-1900). A young Frank Lloyd Wright (1867-1959) also played a small part. It was the largest building in the world at completion and the first building of its size with electric lighting and air conditioning. It was such an important building that the president at the time, Benjamin Harrison, attended the opening. The building was also instrumental in Chicago securing the 1893 World’s Fair.
The building’s centerpiece, the Auditorium Theatre, was home to the Chicago Symphony Orchestra until 1904. It later hosted the Lyric Opera, and the Joffrey Ballet from 1999 to 2021. It’s currently owned by Roosevelt University. The building was designated a National Historic Landmark on May 15, 1975.
Auditorium Theatre Tour
Informative and interesting tours of the acoustically perfect theatre are typically offered on Sundays, Mondays, and Wednesdays at noon. Adult admission is US$18 (as of April 2024). The box office opens for ticket sales 30 minutes before each tour, and you can also purchase tickets online. The entrance to the theatre is along Congress Parkway while the building sits along Michigan Avenue.
Auditorium Theatre Lobby
The tour began in the lobby, where the guide gave an overview of the history of the Auditorium Building. The design elements were then discussed, such as the exterior load-bearing walls and the floating foundation sitting on a bed of wet clay. The architects expected the building to settle about 6 inches but in some places it was more than 29 inches. During the tour, everyone noticed some sections of the floor were much lower than others and even slanted at times. Before moving on, the guide pointed out the six stained glass windows that adorn the entrance doors.
Main Seating Area of the Auditorium Theatre
Next, it was off to the dimly-lit main seating area. We were told about the many uses of the Auditorium Theatre, such as a bowling alley for soldiers during World War II, the hydraulic stage that could be extended, and the grand hotel that was connected to it (now used as classrooms for Roosevelt University). Looking at the ceiling, we saw what used to be a skylight allowing natural light to enter. When there was a daytime performance, a screen was pulled across the skylight to darken the theatre.
Walking up a few flights of stairs, we took a seat and caught our breath while the guide explained the state-of-the-art lighting system. Many people at the time the theatre was built had no access to electricity and there were no electric companies, but the theatre ran on generators and was able to use soft light bulbs.
The architects also implemented an air conditioning system well before air conditioning was invented. Large blocks of ice were chipped and placed in front of fans that blew cool air through vents in the ceiling. It was ingenious considering the time period and resources available.
Upper Level of the Auditorium Theatre
We walked all the way up to the highest level of the Auditorium Theatre, a vertigo-inducing six stories above the main floor. It felt like we were looking straight down to the stage. The seats in the upper section are the original seats installed during construction of the theatre. The rest have been replaced with much more comfortable and larger seats.
There were also excellent views to the murals painted on either side. To the right was a mural representing the spring season and life and to the left was one representing autumn and death. Poetry by Louis Sullivan is featured on the bottom of each mural. The same circle of life theme is represented above the stage from right to left.
Main Level of the Auditorium Theatre
Back down on the main level, we saw a small section behind the main seating area with a fireplace. It was used to warm up in the winter. Mosaics and benches are on both sides of the fireplace.
Finally, we were shown the luxury boxes along the side of the main seating area. Louis Sullivan wanted all people to sit together and designed the best views to come from the center, but financiers refused to give him the funds to build the theatre unless he added luxury boxes. He added the boxes but he had the last laugh as they were not the best seats in the house, only the most comfortable. He believed that those who wanted to see the show would sit in the center and those who wanted to be seen would sit in the boxes.
Fine Arts Building
Next door to the Auditorium Building sits the Fine Arts Building. It was built between 1884 and 1885 for Studebaker by architect Solon Spencer Beman (1853-1914). Beman extensively remodeled the building 1898, removing the 8th story and adding 3more stories. This is easily visible today. Furthermore, the granite columns at the main entrance are thought to be the largest polished monolithic shafts in the country.
The Fine Arts Building was later used as offices and studios for mainly architects and artists, including Frank Lloyd Wright. It’s open daily for visitors to explore. Visit the official website to learn more.
Santa Fe Building
At Jackson Boulevard is the Santa Fe Building, also known as the Railway Exchange Building. It was built in the 1904 for the Santa Fe Railway and was designed by Frederick P. Dinkelberg (1858-1935). It has a beautiful lobby made of marble. The building is currently owned by the University of Notre Dame.
From 2009 to 2018, the lobby featured a scale model of Chicago’s downtown area that’s updated annually with architectural changes. That moved to 111 E. Wacker along with the offices of the Chicago Architecture Center.
Symphony Center
The Symphony Center, home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra since 1904, is next door. It was designed by Daniel Burnham (1846-1912) as a permanent home for the orchestra. Its main auditorium, Orchestra Hall, can seat over 2,500 people. I’ve been to a few performances there and enjoyed it very much. The building was designated a National Historic Landmark on April 19, 1994.
Route 66 Starting Point
Turning left on Adams Street, you’ll find the sign that indicates the beginning of historic Route 66. The iconic American highway began in Chicago and ended in Santa Monica, California, winding through eight states and several cities along the way. It covered 2,448 miles and lasted from 1926 until its decertification in 1985.
Monroe Building
The Monroe Building was designed by Holabird and Roche and opened in 1912. It stands 16 stories high and is a steel frame building covered in a combination of terracotta and granite. The Monroe Building has a gorgeous lobby that’s worth popping in to see. It features one of the largest installations of Rookwood tile in the country.
Pritzker Military Museum
The Pritzker Military Museum is on the second floor of the Monroe Building. General admission is US$10 (as of April 2024) and it’s open Thursday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm.
Visitors can see special exhibits about military history, photos, medals, and oral histories recorded by veterans. An interactive Medal of Honor display has a computer allowing for searches of medal recipients. The library contains rare books and can perform genealogical research for anyone seeking more information on relatives who have served in the military.
Chicago Cultural Center
The Chicago Cultural Center, sitting between Washington and Randolph Streets is one of the most impressive buildings on Michigan Avenue. The building opened in 1897 and was designed by Shepley, Rutan and Coolidge of Boston.
The building has a four-story north wing and a five-story south wing, and is generally neoclassical in style. It was used as the city’s library until 1991. Today, the Chicago Cultural Center is the official reception venue for the City of Chicago and also hosts several special events and exhibitions throughout the year.
The Randolph Street entrance of the Chicago Cultural Center features Doric columns and mahogany doors. Inside is a curving stairway faced with Knoxville pink marble along with mosaics and bronze balusters.
The Washington Street entrance of the Chicago Cultural Center includes an arched portal with bronze-framed doors. Inside is a grand staircase made of white Carrara marble set with green marble medallions from Connemara, Ireland, and mosaics of glass, stone, and mother of pearl.
Preston Bradley Hall
A marble staircase inside the Washington Street entrance leads to the Preston Bradley Hall. The hall is named for Preston Bradley (1888-1983), an American author who was also the founder and pastor of the People’s Church in the Uptown neighborhood of Chicago.
Preston Bradley Hall is decorated with white Carrara marble and ornate mosaic tile patterns. The hall also contains the largest stained glass Tiffany dome in the world. It was designed by Jacob Adolphus Holzer (1858-1938).
GAR Memorial
The Grand Army of the Republic (GAR) Memorial is located inside the Randolph Street entrance and includes a large hall and rotunda. The organization, which donated the land for the building, used this space as a meeting hall and memorial. The hall is decorated with green Vermont marble, while the rotunda features Knoxville pink marble, mosaic floors, and an impressive stained-glass dome.
Crain Communications Building
Across the street to the north is the Crain Communications Building, formerly the Smurfit-Stone Building. It was built between 1983 and 1984 and has a unique slanted façade. The building was designed by Sheldon Schlegman and stands 39 stories high. It was featured in the 1987 movie Adventures in Babysitting and was destroyed during the Transformers: Dark of the Moon.
Carbide and Carbon Building
Two blocks north on the corner of Wacker Place, the Carbide and Carbon Building, built between 1928 and 1929, is an Art Deco building covered in green terra cotta. It was designed by Daniel Burnham Jr. (1886-1961) and was converted to a hotel between 2001 to 2004. It previously housed the Hard Rock Hotel from 2004 to 2017 and the St. Jane Hotel from 2018 to 2020, and has hosted the Pendry Hotel since 2021. Popular myth says that the building was built in the shape of a champagne bottle with the gold leaf top representing its cork.
Aqua
Veering off Michigan Avenue for a moment, a couple blocks east in the New Eastside neighborhood is Aqua, a modern skyscraper completed in 2009. Its innovative design was the brainchild of Jeanne Gang, and upon completion it was the tallest building in the world designed by a woman. It’s an 87-story mixed-use building that also hosts the first Radisson Blu hotel to be opened in the United States.
Blackhawks Store
Finally, hockey fans will love the Blackhawks Store, located at the corner of Michigan Avenue and Wacker Drive. This store has anything and everything Chicago Blackhawks. It sits on top of a branch of chocolatier Fannie May, which was founded in Chicago in 1920.
Where to Eat on Michigan Avenue
With plenty of options for both workers and tourists, this stretch of Michigan Avenue contains some decent places to eat. I’ve been to lots of restaurants along the street, but this post will only cover the few that I’ve been to since 2015. I’ll add more as I visit them.
Yolk
First, if you want to start off your day with a hearty breakfast before walking down Michigan Avenue, you’ll get one of the best in Chicago at Yolk. It’s the original location of an upscale breakfast chain that first opened in 2006, and it’s located just south of 11th Street. Yolk has grown quickly and opened several other branches since then.
Portions are huge, there’s lots of variety on the menu, service is good, and prices are more than fair for what you get. Most importantly, the food is delicious!
Russian Tea Time
Russian Tea Time opened in 1993 and serves up authentic dishes from Russia and the former Soviet republics. The elegant setting also hosts a daily afternoon tea service. I visited for lunch one afternoon with my friend Pete and had an excellent bowl of Ukrainian borscht. Russian Tea Time is popular for patrons of nearby cultural events. It’s located a few steps west of Michigan Avenue past the Route 66 sign on the south side of Adams Street.
Map of Michigan Avenue
