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The small city of Cartago lies on the main road between Cali and Pereira. It’s not typically visited by foreigners.
Introduction to Cartago
Cartago is one of the oldest cities in Colombia, founded on August 9, 1540, by Spanish conquistador Jorge Robledo (1500-1546). It originally stood on the site now occupied by Pereira, but was transferred to its current location on April 21, 1691, because of threats from local indigenous groups.
There’s not much to detour travelers, but Cartago does have a few minor points of interest as well as some good restaurants. The only negative is that it’s uncomfortably hot.
Getting to Cartago
Any bus traveling between Cali and Pereira can make a stop in Cartago. From the Pereira bus terminal, 4 companies make the 30-minute direct trip every 10 to 15 minutes. They are Colectivos del Café, Coochoferes, Expreso Alcalá, and Tax Cartago. From Cali, the trip takes about two hours. There’s no bus terminal in Cartago. Each company has its own garage.
Getting Around Cartago
Cartago is a good sized city, but the main sights are within walking distance of each other. Nevertheless, getting around Cartago will involve a taxi at some point, especially if you need to get to restaurants further out from the city center. Also, if you need a bus to Cali or Pereira and aren’t sure where to get one, jump in a taxi and ask the driver to take you to one of the bus companies.
If you’re visiting Cartago on a Sunday, be aware that much of the city is shut down on that day. Most restaurants will be open, but many stores and the House of the Viceroy will be closed.
Where to Eat in Cartago
Cartago has some very good restaurants. We like to make the trip down once in a while to grab a bite to eat.
Brasas y Leños
Brasas y Leños is by far one of the best steak restaurants I’ve eaten at in Colombia, an. It’s located in a quiet residential area on the far west side of the city but is well worth the trek. We arrived a few minutes after it had opened and almost every table was already full. That was definitely a good sign!
The restaurant offers several different cuts of meat, including several premium American, Brazilian, and Argentinian cuts along with traditional Colombian steaks. I had a t-bone while Marisol had a ribeye, and both were juicy and cooked to perfection. I can easily say it’s one of the best steaks I’ve had in Colombia, and it’s hard to find a good one in this country. It’s not a cheap meal, but the steaks are a fraction of the price you would pay in the US.
Casa Vieja
On our first trip to Cartago in March 2015, a friend of Marisol’s recommended Casa Vieja. It’s a long walk south of the main area of the city so a taxi may be necessary to get there.
Although a bit expensive by Colombian standards, the food was excellent and worth the price. The menu was generally traditional Colombian food but with a creative twist. I had a teriyaki Chilean salmon dish while Marisol had a róbalo filet. Both came with arroz con coco (coconut rice) and were very tasty.
Mercado El Virrey
Just north of the House of the Viceroy is the Mercado El Virrey. It’s a food court with different restaurants serving a variety of different cuisines. There’s traditional Colombian, steak, seafood, Peruvian, and more, as well as a bar on the upper level and a café. The bar looks down on the pedestrianized Calle 13, where several historic buildings are located, including the House of the Viceroy.
We stopped into the café, Kumba, which is located right at the entrance. It’s definitely not the best coffee we’ve had, but service is friendly and it has a nice atmosphere.
Restaurante El Virrey
Across the street from the House of the Viceroy is the very simple Restaurante El Virrey. They serve traditional Colombian fare as well as lunch specials at reasonable prices. I had a chicken stew served with rice, beans, and a salad. The food isn’t that great.
Our Lady of Guadalupe
A good place to start is a wonderful little chapel, Our Lady of Guadalupe (Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe). It has a classic colonial whitewashed exterior and is a Colombian national heritage site. The interior has a simple elegance to it that complements the exterior very nicely.
Parque de Guadalupe
The chapel faces a small park, Parque de Guadalupe, which has changed dramatically since my first visit to the city in 2015. At that time, there were trees and paths within the park.
In March 2021, the trees had been removed and the entire park was empty expect for a fountain in the back.
Parque La Isleta
Behind Our Lady of Guadalupe is a large public park, Parque La Isleta. This park has basketball courts, a small skate park, benches, a playground, and different activities for children.
Artisan House
On the next block west of the chapel is the Artisan House (Casa Artesanal). It contains a café and craft workshops where you can purchase locally made goods.
Museum of Embroidery (Temporarily Closed)
Next door is the Museum of Embroidery (Museo del Bordado Calle Real). It highlights one of the most important crafts in the city and offers different programs throughout the week. A small admission is charged and there’s a café located inside. The museum is open daily, but it had closed by the time we walked by. (Note: the museum is currently without a location as of March 2024. I’ll update when I learn more information.).
Our Lady of Poverty
Across the street at the end of the block from the museum, you’ll come to another church, Our Lady of Poverty (Nuestra Señora de la Pobreza). It was completed in 1786 and is also known as the Church of San Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco). There’s a nice historic building across the street as well.
Parque Santander
Our Lady of Poverty sits across the street from a small but pleasant park, Parque Santander. It has a fountain in the center and a hotel on one end.
Parque de Bolívar
Another block west is the very large Parque de Bolívar. It’s the main square in Cartago and is filled with tall trees and benches. Street vendors sell their goods while children play with squirrels and visitors try to spot giant iguanas on the trees.
In the center is a statue of Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), the liberator of several countries from the Spanish Empire.
Church of San Jorge
On the south side of the Parque de Bolívar is the Church of San Jorge (Iglesia de San Jorge), which was completed in 1808. It isn’t as tall or grand as the other churches but has a nice façade with a bell tower.
House of the Viceroy
A block away down a pedestrianized street is the historic House of the Viceroy (Casa del Virrey). This colonial building is the only one of its kind in Cartago and is very important from an architectural standpoint.
It was constructed by Sebastián de Marisancena at the end of the 18th century to receive the Spanish viceroy of New Granada, José Manuel de Ezpeleta (1739-1823). To date, no document has been found to confirm the viceroy’s visit ever took place.
Today, the building hosts a museum highlighting the history and cultural heritage of Cartago dating back to 1612. It includes paintings, documents, historic photographs, and other items. The museum is open daily except Sundays. Admission is COP$1,500 for a guided visit (as of April 2024). I was finally able to visit in December 2022 and will update this post when I have a chance.
Our Lady of Mount Carmel Cathedral
On the next block to the west is Our Lady of Mount Carmel Cathedral (Catedral Nuestra Señora del Carmen). It was built in 1944 in the neoclassical style, and is a replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. It has a very tall bell tower as well.
Cartago City Hall
Not far away is the City Hall (Alcaldía). It is a beautiful building that we drove past twice in a taxi. I wasn’t able to get a shot.
