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San Telmo is a bohemian area of Buenos Aires. After a yellow fever epidemic in 1871 caused an exodus of the middle and upper class, it became home to the working class and immigrants. Most of the attractions I found in San Telmo are either on or within a block or two of Calle Defensa.

 

Art Museums

I started my exploration of the neighborhood’s southern end, Parque Lezama, and walked north on Calle Defensa. At the corner of Calle Defensa and Av. San Juan, there are two museums, the Modern Art Museum (Museo de Arte Moderno), or MAMBA for short, and the Buenos Aires Museum of Contemporary Art (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Buenos Aires), or MACBA for short. I wasn’t interested in visiting either, but just letting you know they exist.

Modern Art Museum in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Modern Art Museum
MACBA in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
MACBA

 

Plaza Dorrego

I continued up Calle Defensa to the heart of San Telmo, Plaza Dorrego. It might have looked dead at the time, but at weekends I was told it comes alive with tango dancing and an antique and craft market. In fact, Calle Defensa is full of antique shops. Plaza Dorrego is also surrounded by several restaurants and cafés, some of them offering tango shows.

Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Plaza Dorrego
Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Plaza Dorrego
Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Plaza Dorrego

 

 

Church of San Pedro

Just to the east of Plaza Dorrego is the Church of Our Lady of Bethlehem (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Belén), which is also known as the Church of San Pedro González Telmo (Parroquia de San Pedro González Telmo). This church was built in 1806 and is the most important one in the area. Around the corner is a small concrete football field with some great street art on the back wall.

Church of San Pedro in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Church of San Pedro
Mural in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Mural in San Telmo

 

Calle Defensa

Walking north along Calle Defensa, there’s lots of antique shops, some restaurants, and a the occasional interesting building. Amid some of the ugly graffiti along the street, there’s some very nice street art.

Calle Defensa in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Calle Defensa
Calle Defensa in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Calle Defensa
A building on Calle Defensa in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
A building on Calle Defensa
A building on Calle Defensa in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
A building on Calle Defensa

 

Pasaje San Lorenzo

Near the northern part of San Telmo, intersecting with Calle Defensa, is my favorite street in the neighborhood, Pasaje San Lorenzo. This tiny street has some beautiful homes and some of the best street art in San Telmo.

Pasaje San Lorenzo in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Pasaje San Lorenzo
Che Guevara mural on Pasaje San Lorenzo in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Che Guevara mural
Mural on Pasaje San Lorenzo in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Mural

 

El Zanjón de Granados

The building on Calle Defensa facing Pasaje San Lorenzo is El Zanjón de Granados. It’s a museum about the “urban archaeology” of Buenos Aires. It looked very interesting, but was unfortunately closed when I walked by. The website has a schedule of tours available.

El Zanjón de Granados in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
El Zanjón de Granados

 

Casa Mínima

Probably the most interesting building in all of San Telmo is also located on Pasaje San Lorenzo. Casa Mínima is a small, narrow house built in the 1880s by freed slaves on a piece of land granted to them by their former master. Guided tours are available through El Zanjón.

Casa Mínima in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Casa Mínima

 

Ode to the Worker

A couple blocks east of Calle Defensa down Av. Independencia is Plazoleta Coronel Manuel de Olazábal. An important sculpture, Ode to the Worker (Canto al Trabajo), is located there. It was made in 1927 by Rogelio Yrurtia (1879-1950). Also on the plaza is the imposing Ministry of Agro-Industry building (Ministerio de Agroindustria).

Ode to the Worker in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Ode to the Worker
Ministry of Agro-Industry in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Ministry of Agro-Industry

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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