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On a rainy day, I started my exploration of the Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo at its southern end. I took the Subte to Constitution Station (Estación Constitución) and walked about six blocks to Parque Lezama. Let me tell you – not the brightest idea. The streets and park were almost completely empty and I encountered a few shady characters along the way.
Parque Lezama
Parque Lezama is thought to be the site of the first failed attempt at the creation of Buenos Aires in 1536 by Conquistador Pedro de Mendoza. A monument to him is located in the park.
The park features a gazebo, sculpture garden, walkways, and recreational areas. There’s a lot of wear and tear but it’s easy to see its former glory.
National Historical Museum
On the grounds of the park is the National Historical Museum (Museo Histórico Nacional), housed in the former mansion of the Lezama family, built in 1857.
Russian Orthodox Cathedral
On the north end of the park is the Holy Trinity Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Catedral Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad). This church with blue onion domes was built in 1901 using materials imported from St. Petersburg.
Calle Defensa
From the park, I walked up Calle Defensa into the heart of San Telmo. Once I crossed under the highway, I immediately felt like I was in a different and better area. Buildings were in better condition, there were more people on the streets, and more life in general.
