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I had no idea what to expect as far as food in Albania. Luckily, I was able to find some amazing restaurants and hidden gems in Tirana.
Kernacka Zgara Korçe
First of all, Albanians know how to grill. I had some of the best kebabs in my life in Tirana. Kernacka Zgara Korçe, near the market in the city center, was cheap and amazingly good. I got a pork kebab, 2 chicken kebabs wrapped in bacon, xaxiq (thick yogurt sauce – like Greek tzatziki), and qofte (meatballs), for a reasonable price. I’m sure their next door neighbors, who also serve the same food, are just as good. Near the hotel I ate at Shija Korçare, which was not quite as good, but also reasonably priced.
Era
For traditional Albanian food, I ate at Era in the Blloku district. For a starter, I had grilled eggplant topped with a slice of goat cheese and tomato. My main course was fërgesë, which is very tender pieces of veal, peppers, tomatoes, spices, and goat cheese cooked into a nice, gooey mess in a stone bowl. Both dishes were very tasty.
Oda
Even more traditional is Oda, which is also near the market. You sit in an Albanian home Ottoman-style and the food is as homemade as can be. I had a salad and stuffed eggplant washed down my homemade raki, the traditional Albanian spirit. It’s a little hard to find – you have to spot it in a small alley off a main boulevard, but it’s well worth it.
Pizza
I also ate at two pizza places in Tirana but neither were memorable. My amazing pizza experience in Krujë ruined every other pizza in Albania for me.
