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The second biggest of the Princes’ Islands in Istanbul is Heybeliada (Saddlebag Island), also known by its Greek name, Halki (Χάλκη). It makes for a nice, relaxing day trip from the bustling and chaotic mainland.
The island historically was home to many Greek and Jewish inhabitants of Istanbul, and its multiculturalism still shows to this day, mostly through religious buildings.
Arrival
The ferry terminal is located in the center of town. You’ll be able to find some restaurants and cafés to eat, or you can jump on an electric carriage or rent a bike and begin exploring the island.
Ottoman Architecture
If you are into Ottoman architecture, there are plenty of beautiful homes to be found in town.
I personally like the ones along Refah Şehitleri Street (Refah Şehitleri Caddesi). One highlight is the İnönü House Museum (İnönü Evi Müzesi), which was rented in 1924 and later bought by İsmet İnönü (1884-1973), a Turkish general and the second president of Turkey. It’s open daily except Mondays and admission for foreigners is 160₺ (as of August 2024). Another is the Halki Palace Hotel (Halki Palas Oteli).
Church of St. Nicholas
There are also a few points of interest related to the Greek and Jewish inhabitants of the island. The red Greek Orthodox church of St. Nicholas is just a few steps from the pier, standing in the center of town.
Heybeliada Society for the Science of Music
The Heybeliada Society for the Science of Music (Heybeliada İlm-i Musiki Derneği) is an interesting pink building just a short walk from the pier. It’s a former Greek school that was funded by the Greek Department of International Development Cooperation and the Greek NGO Bosphorus Cultural Alliance. The building still has some markings from its original use as a Greek school.
Bet Yaakov Synagogue
Not too far from the music school is the Bet Yaakov Synagogue, built in 1952.
Halki Seminary
Perhaps the reason the island of Heybeliada is internationally-known is the controversy surrounding Halki Seminary, which is covered in another entry. It’s the main seminary for the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople and sits on a hill just above town. Unfortunately, it has been closed since 1971. Several international efforts by human rights groups and foreign governments to urge Turkey into reopening the seminary based on the basic human right of freedom of religion have thus far failed to make progress.
Değirmen Burnu
At the bottom of the hill where Halki Seminary is situated is Cape Değirmen (Değirmen Burnu). There’s a small road from town that winds around the hill into a park and beach. In the park are picnic tables and an old mill. Admission is 35₺ for the picnic area (as of August 2024). To get on the beach, it’s 300₺ on weekdays and 350₺ on weekends and holidays (as of August 2024). Children aged 6-12 get in for half price and kids under 6 are admitted free of charge.
Bike Tour
If you get a bike to explore the rest of the island, there are a few more points of interest. The bike rental outlets should be able to provide you with a map to find everything and get around, but it’s nearly impossible to get lost. There’s really only one road making a ring around the island once you’re out of town.
St. George Greek Orthodox Monastery
Going clockwise out of town, the first point of interest is the St. George Greek Orthodox Monastery. It was built in 1758 and is very easy to miss if you aren’t paying attention.
Sanatoriums
Next are two abandoned sanatoriums, one for females, up on a hill hidden behind some trees, and one for males. The one for males is much better seen from further away. They were both open from 1924 to 2005 and were the premier tuberculosis hospitals in Turkey.
Turkish Naval Academy
A large white building in between the two hills on the island is the Turkish Naval Academy. It was founded in 1773, and was relocated to Heybeliada from 1822 to 1838, 1850 t0 1941, and 1946 to the present. The Byzantine church of Panagia Kamariotissa, built in 1341, is on the grounds of the academy. It’s used for storage and closed to visitors. The cantor stands from the church can be seen at the Church of St. George at the Ecumenical Patriarchate.
Çam Harbor
South of the Naval Academy is Çam Harbor (Çam Limanı). It was known as St. Mary’s Harbor in Byzantine times and translates to Pine Harbor.
St. Spyridon Monastery
On the west end of Çam Harbor is a small dirt road with some horses. Follow the road to the St. Spyridon Monastery. It was built in 1868 and rebuilt in 1894 after it was destroyed in an earthquake. In Turkish, it’s called “Terki Dünya” or “Leaving the World Behind” Monastery. There should be a caretaker on the grounds to let you into the church.
More of the Island
The rest of the island is covered in a beautiful forest. I followed the map indicating other points of interest, including another monastery in the middle of the island, but found nothing.
Barbayani
Finally, if you’re looking for a decent place to eat, check out Barbayani just across from the ferry terminal. It’s a Greek taverna that opened in the 1940s. There are all kinds of fish and seafood dishes on the menu as well as a few Greek and Turkish specialties. I had a very filling lamb güveç, which is a stew cooked in a clay dish. Others in my group had shrimp, calamari, octopus, and fish, which they all enjoyed.
More Info
To learn about the other islands and for instructions on how to get to Heybeliada, read my intro to the Princes’ Islands.
