Last updated on January 26, 2024.

Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi) is a pedestrianized street in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. It’s one of the most popular places in the city for both tourists and locals.

 

Jump To

Intro to Istiklal Street

Istiklal street runs for 1.4 kilometers from Taksim Square to Tünel and is lined with shops, restaurants, cafés, museums, theatres, cinemas, libraries, churches, and consulates. Several of the buildings were constructed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Nostalgic trolley on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Nostalgic trolley on Istiklal Street

 

History of Istiklal Street

Istiklal translates to Independence in English. In the late 19th century, Istiklal Street was the European district of old Constantinople and was called Grand Avenue in several different languages. In Turkish, it was called Cadde-i Kebir, while in French it was Grande Rue de Péra. The Greeks called it Megali Odos tou Peran (Μεγάλη Οδός του Πέραν).

Street musician
Street musician

On September 6 and 7, 1955, Istiklal Street witnessed the anti-Greek Istanbul pogrom. Greek-owned shops and churches were pillaged, tombs were vandalized, women were raped, and cars were wrecked all over the city, but the epicenter was on Istiklal Street. The riots were secretly organized by the Turkish government, who falsely claimed that a Greek had bombed the Turkish consulate in Thessaloniki, Greece, which also happened to be the birthplace of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938). It was a dark period in Turkish history and accelerated the emigration of ethnic Greeks from Turkey.

Istiklal Street
Istiklal Street

In the 1970s and 1980s, many of the street’s original inhabitants left. Migrants from rural areas of Anatolia took their place and it became a seedy area full of bars and bordellos.

Istiklal Street
Istiklal Street
Side street off Istiklal
Side street off Istiklal

In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Istiklal Street was renovated and completely pedestrianized. Several historic buildings were restored and new restaurants and shops opened. Its charm and popularity returned and it became a lively destination once again.

Baklava shop
Baklava shop
Looking north towards Galatasaray
Looking north towards Galatasaray
Looking south towards Tünel on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Looking south towards Tünel

 

Organization of this Post

In this post, I’ll cover several of the historic buildings and points of interest along Istiklal Street starting at its north end at Taksim Square and working my way south to Tünel. In between, I’ll veer onto some of the side streets and back streets to cover some of their features as well.

A sign near Istiklal Street
A sign near Istiklal Street
Istiklal Street
Istiklal Street

 

French Consulate

Starting at the north end of Istiklal Street, the first building of interest is the French Consulate. Unlike other consulates in Istanbul, this building didn’t serve as an embassy during the Ottoman period. It was built in 1868 by French architect M. Carre on the site of what was originally the French Plague Hospital. The French Embassy was located a bit further away in Tomtom at the French Palace.

Istiklal Street
Istiklal Street
French Consulate on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
French Consulate

The French Consulate has a nice café inside with extra seating in the courtyard. You can enter on the side of the building by going through security and leaving your ID with the guard.

Café at the French Consulate on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Café
Courtyard of the French Consulate on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard

 

Taxim Palace

Across the street is Taxim Palace Apartment (Taksim Palas Apartmanı). It was built in the early 20th century by architect Victor Adaman.

Taxim Palace

 

Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church

At the next intersection, if you turn right down Zambak Street, you can visit Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church. It’s covered in another post.

Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church

 

Meşelik Street

At the same intersection, turning left will take you down Meşelik Street, where you can see a few historic buildings.

 

Agia Triada Greek Orthodox Church

The first building on your left is Agia Triada Greek Orthodox Church, which is covered in another post.

Agia Triada Greek Orthodox Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Agia Triada Greek Orthodox Church

 

Zappeion Greek School

Further down Meşelik Street are two schools. On the left just past the Greek church is the Zappeion Greek School (Özel Zapyon Rum Lisesi). This private school was founded by Evangelis Zappas (1800-1865) and was vandalized during the Istanbul pogrom on September 6-7, 1955.

Zappeion Greek School
Zappeion Greek School
Greek inscription above a door

 

Esayan Armenian School

Across the street is the Esayan Armenian School (Özel Esayan Ermeni Lisesi), which was established in 1895 by brothers Hovhannes and Mıgirdiç Esayan. From 1918 to 1922, part of the school was used as an orphanage.

Esayan Armenian School
Esayan Armenian School
Entrance to the Esayan Armenian School in Istanbul, Turkey
Entrance

 

Old Greek Building

Continuing back down Istiklal Street is a remnant of the street’s cosmopolitan past. This building, to the left of Borsa Lokantası, contains a sign with faded Greek writing above the entrance. It used to house a Starbucks, but that moved next door. The sign has also changed a bit with the building renovations.

Old Greek building
Greek sign in April 2012
Greek sign in October 2019

 

Küçük Parmakkapı and Büyük Parmakkapı Streets

The next two streets to the left are Küçük Parmakkapı and Büyük Parmakkapı. Küçük Parmakkapı has a few nargile cafés while following Büyük Parmakkapı to Çukurlu Çeşme Street will lead you to some great lesser-known restaurants.

Küçük Parmakkapı
Küçük Parmakkapı
Büyük Parmakkapı
Büyük Parmakkapı
Market on Büyük Parmakkapı
Market on Büyük Parmakkapı
Çukurlu Çeşme Street
Çukurlu Çeşme Street

 

Saint Pulcherie French High School

On Çukurlu Çeşme Street is Saint Pulcherie French High School (Özel Sainte Pulcherie Fransız Lisesi / Lycée Sainte-Pulchérie). It was founded on June 15, 1846, by French nuns and named after Saint Pulcheria. It operated in the former French Plague Hospital on a site near the French Consulate before moving to another location. The school closed from 1914 to 1919 due to World War I and reopened in the current building, which was previously an Italian school for boys. Today, it’s one of the top high schools in Turkey, with students benefitting from a bilingual French and Turkish education.

Saint Pulcherie French High School in Istanbul, Turkey
Saint Pulcherie French High School
Saint Pulcherie French High School

 

Central Greek High School

Around the corner on Maç Street is the Central Greek High School (Özel Merkez Rum Lisesi). It was built in 1850 to educate girls from a lower class background. The last lesson took place in 1999, and the building now serves as a residence for its caretakers.

Central Greek High School
Central Greek High School

 

Ragıp Pasha Apartment

Further down Istiklal Street is another interesting building that has always caught my eye. The Ragıp Pasha Apartment (Ragıp Paşa Apartmanı) was built in 1900 by Ragıp Sarıca Pasha in the Art Nouveau style. The architect was Aram Karakaş. It sits on the corner of colorful Imam Adnan Street.

Ragıp Pasha Apartment on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Ragıp Pasha Apartment
Imam Adnan Street
Imam Adnan Street

 

Rumeli Han

On the next block is Rumeli Han. It was built between 1895 and 1900 for Ragıp Sarıca Pasha and is one of the most beautiful buildings on the entire street. It’s a mixed retail, office, and residential building. The architect is unknown.

Rumeli Han
Rumeli Han

Gorgeous stone carvings adorn the entrance to Rumeli Han. Directly above the entrance is an inscription in Ottoman Turkish with the construction date. The building’s name is etched in French on the left (Cité Roumelie) and in Greek (Αγορά Ρωμυλίας) on the right.

Entrance
Inscription in Ottoman Turkish on Rumeli Han on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription in Ottoman Turkish
Rumeli Han in French on Rumeli Han on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Rumeli Han in French
Rumeli Han in Greek on Rumeli Han on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Rumeli Han in Greek

 

Hüseyin Ağa Mosque

Next to Rumeli Han is the Hüseyin Ağa Mosque (Hüseyin Ağa Camii). It was built in 1594 when the land around it was open countryside. Imagine looking around in every direction and seeing nothing but the mosque and some trees.

Hüseyin Ağa Mosque on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Hüseyin Ağa Mosque

If you’re walking by, it’s worth popping inside this small mosque to see the beautiful tiles and stained glass windows. It’s the only mosque found along the entire length of Istiklal Street.

Hüseyin Ağa Mosque on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Hüseyin Ağa Mosque

 

Istiklal Mall

Walking south, the first building on the right after the Hüseyin Ağa Mosque is Istiklal Mall. The building dates back to the beginning of the 20th century and was gutted by a fire in the 1950s. It was completely rebuilt into an office building and passage, and it was purchased by Demirören Holding in 1980. The Palace Cinema operated there from 1996 to 2005. The building was later refurbished from 2006 to 2011 in a controversial project to develop the mall, which many believed corrupted the historic integrity of Istiklal Street.

Istiklal Mall
Istiklal Mall

 

Grand Pera Mall

Next, also on the right, is Grand Pera Mall. The building opened in 1883 and the architect was Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921). As the largest building on Istiklal Street, it hosted one of the first social clubs of the Ottoman Empire, the Cercle d’Orient. A fire gutted the building in 1983 and it sat for years in a dilapidated state. The famous İnci Pastanesi, founded by Lukas Zigoritis in 1944, was once on the ground floor.

Cercle d'Orient in April 2012 (before restoration) on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Cercle d’Orient in April 2012 (before restoration)

The building was refurbished starting May 20, 2013, and reopened as the mall in 2016. Madame Tussauds Istanbul is also located there. İnci Pastanesi relocated a few blocks away.

Grand Pera Mall on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Grand Pera Mall
Madame Tussauds Istanbul
Madame Tussauds Istanbul

 

Yeşilçam Street

If you take Yeşilçam Street, which is between Istiklal and Grand Pera Malls, until it curves to the left, you’ll see some colorful buildings as well as a few bars and restaurants. It was a decent entertainment zone when I lived in Istanbul. Turkish cinema is named after the street because many directors, actors, and studios were based there.

Yeşilçam Street
Yeşilçam Street
Mural on Yeşilçam Street
Mural
Yeşilçam Street
Yeşilçam Street

 

Greek Consulate

Next to Grand Pera is the Greek Consulate, located in the Sismanoglio Megaro. The building dates back to the late 19th century and was donated to the Greek government by Konstantinos Sismanoglou in 1939. Due to political differences, the consulate wasn’t established in the building until 2003. Several cultural events are scheduled there throughout the year, including art exhibitions, film screenings, and conferences. Consular activities are performed at the Siniosoglou Mansion, which is nearby on Turnacıbaşı Street.

Greek Consulate on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Greek Consulate

 

Aleppo Passage

Aleppo Passage (Halep Pasajı) is next door to the Greek Consulate. It was built in 1885 by M. Haccas from Aleppo, Syria. The passage features a cinema and shops selling several different goods and souvenirs. It was also known as Cité d’Alep in French, and has an inscription in French and Ottoman Turkish above the entrance.

Aleppo Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Aleppo Passage
Inscriptions above the entrance to Aleppo Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscriptions above the entrance
Ornamental stonework on Aleppo Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Ornamental stonework

 

Anadolu Han

Across the street from the Greek Consulate is Anadolu Han. It was built in 1890 by Ragıp Sarıca Pasha. The ground floor used to contain a passage but it has since been converted into one large retail space.

Anadolu Han
Anadolu Han

 

Atlas Passage

Next door is Atlas Passage (Atlas Pasajı). It was built by Ottoman Armenian businessman Agop Köçeyan in 1870 as his personal residence. Köçeyan donated the building to the Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church before his death. During the occupation of Constantinople, the building served as a court for British forces from 1918 to 1922 and later as a post office.

Atlas Passage

Atlas Passage was renovated in 1932 and became an art center. In 1948, it was renovated once again and reopened as the Atlas Cinema (Atlas Sineması), which still operates. The building underwent a major restoration between 2019 and 2021. Several stores occupy the passage along with the Istanbul Cinema Museum.

Atlas Passage in October 2019 (before restoration)
Atlas Passage in October 2019 (before restoration)
Atlas Passage in June 2022

 

Doğançay Museum

The next street to the right is Balo Street, opposite Turnacıbası Street. If you walk all the way to the end of the street to Tarlabaşı Boulevard, you’ll find the Doğançay Museum. It opened to the public in 2004 as Turkey’s first modern art museum and displays works by Burhan Doğançay (1929-2013). Admission is free (as of July 2023) and it’s open daily except Mondays from 10am to 6pm.

Balo Street
Balo Street
Doğançay Museum
Doğançay Museum

 

Turnacıbaşı Street

On the other side of Istiklal Street, it’s worth turning onto Turnacıbaşı Street (Turnacıbaşı Sokak). There are a few historic buildings located on the street.

Turnacıbaşı Street
Turnacıbaşı Street

 

Zografeion Lyceum

First is the Zografeion Lyceum (Ζωγράφειον Λύκειον / Özel Zografyon Rum Lisesi). It’s one of the few remaining Greek schools open in the city.

Zografeion Lyceum on Turnacıbaşı Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Zografeion Lyceum
Zografeion Lyceum
Zografeion Lyceum

The school was named after Christakis Zografos (1820-1898), a prominent Ottoman Greek banker. Zografos donated the most money when the Greek community decided to build the school in the late 19th century. The architect of the building was Periklis Fotiadis. It opened in 1893 and the first alumni graduated in 1899.

Architect's plaque on the Zografeion Lyceum on Turnacıbaşı Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Architect’s plaque
Dedication plaque in Greek on the Zografeion Lyceum
Dedication plaque in Greek
Dedication plaque in Turkish on the Zografeion Lyceum on Turnacıbaşı Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Dedication plaque in Turkish

Before the Istanbul pogrom on September 6-7, 1955, the school consistently had 250 to 350 students enrolled each year. In recent times, enrollment has hovered around 45 students with 20 teachers.

Entrance to the Zografeion Lyceum
Entrance
Entrance to the Zografeion Lyceum on Turnacıbaşı Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Entrance

Famous artists, politicians, theologians, and architects of the Greek diaspora have studied at Zografeion Lyceum. Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew I was one of them.

Sphinx on the Zografeion Lyceum on Turnacıbaşı Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Sphinx

 

Galatasaray Hamam

Galatasaray Hamam (Tarihi Galatasaray Hamamı) is just past the school. It was founded in 1481 and was originally part of a mosque complex. In the past, students of Galatasaray High School, which is just next to the baths, would have hamam service every morning before class. Nowadays, it’s open to the public and several different services are available. The men’s bath is open from 7am to 10pm and the women’s bath is open from 8am to 9pm.

Galatasaray Hamam
Galatasaray Hamam

 

Italian High School

After Turnacıbaşı Street curves to the left, there’s the Galileo Galilei Italian High School (Özel Galileo Galilei Italyan Lisesi). This private high school was founded in 1870 and moved to its current location in 1882. It closed from 1911 to 1919 due to the Turkish-Italian War and World War I. It currently offers English language education for a five year period of study.

Galileo Galilei Italian High School
Galileo Galilei Italian High School

 

Greek Consulate

Finally, next door is the Siniosoglou Mansion, which is where all consular services for the Greek Consulate General take place. The Sismanoglio Megaro on Istiklal Street hosts cultural events.

Siniosoglou Mansion
Siniosoglou Mansion

 

From there…

From there, you can turn around and head back to Istiklal Street, or continue down Turnacıbaşı Street to Cihangir or Çukurcuma, where you can find antique shops and the Museum of Innocence.

 

Tokatlıyan Business Center

Back to Istiklal Street, the next interesting building is Tokatlıyan Business Center (Tokatlıyan İş Hanı). It opened in 1909 as the Tokatlıyan Hotel (Tokatlıyan Oteli) by Ottoman Armenian restaurateur Mıgırdıç Tokatlıyan. The hotel was the biggest rival to the luxurious Pera Palace Hotel nearby and hosted several celebrities throughout the years, including Leon Trotsky and Josephine Baker. It had 160 rooms along with an elevator and central heating. In 1947, the hotel changed hands and became the Konak Hotel, which led to a drop in its popularity. In 1958, it was converted into a business and retail center.

Tokatlıyan Business Center
Tokatlıyan Business Center

 

Örs Touristic Business Center

Across the street is the Örs Touristic Business Center (Örs Turistik İş Merkezi), which was built by the Ottoman Armenian Esayan family in the late 19th century. With its beautiful stonework on the façade, it’s one of the most attractive buildings on Istiklal Street.

Örs Touristic Business Center
Örs Touristic Business Center
Örs Touristic Business Center on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Örs Touristic Business Center

 

Güney Palace

Next door is the Güney Palace (Güney Palas). It opened in December 1900 and was sold to Ottoman Grand Vizier Mehmet Said Pasha (1838-1914). It changed ownership a few times over the years and was famous for the glamorous parties held by its residents. The ground floor is retail space while the upper floors are occupied by Mr. CAS Hotel. There’s a lounge and restaurant on the top floor.

Güney Palace
Güney Palace
Güney Palace

 

Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı)

Directly across from Güney Palace is the Flower Passage and Beyoğlu Fish Market, which are frequented by both tourists and locals alike. Both are covered in their own separate posts.

Flower Passage
Beyoğlu Fish Market
Beyoğlu Fish Market

 

Galatasaray Square

Galatasaray Square (Galatasaray Meydanı) sits at the halfway point of Istiklal Street between Taksim Square and Tünel. There are a few interesting buildings on the square.

 

Galatasaray High School

The most important building on Galatasaray Square is Galatasaray High School (Galatasaray Lisesi), which sits behind tall iron gates. The second oldest educational institution and the oldest high school in the country, it was founded in 1481 by Sultan Bayezid II. It’s one of the most prestigious schools in Turkey. Galatasaray sports club was founded at and named after the school.

Gates to Galatasaray High School on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Gates to Galatasaray High School
Galatasaray High School on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray High School

Although the school has operated on the site since its foundation, the buildings took their present shape in 1868 during the reign of Abdülaziz. Galatasaray High School was originally male-only and didn’t become co-ed until 1965. The curriculum is mostly in French and the academic program takes five years to complete.

Galatasaray High School on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray High School
Galatasaray High School on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray High School

 

Galatasaray Post Office

Across the street is the former Galatasaray Post Office (Galatasaray Postanesi). It was built in 1875 by Ottoman Armenian architect Theodor Sıvacıyan and purchased by the Post Office and Telegram Ministry in 1907. For a short time, BBC, German Telegraph Companies, and Istanbul Radio occupied the building.

Galatasaray Post Office
Galatasaray Post Office

The post office completely burned down in 1977 and the building was restored in 1998. The ground floor contains a small philatelic museum and a history of the building in Turkish.

Stamp display at Galatasaray Post Office
Stamp display
History of the Galatasaray Post Office
History of the building

 

Galatasaray Museum

On the upper floors is the Galatasaray Museum (Galatasaray Müzesi), where you can learn about the Galatasaray Sports Club (Galatasaray Spor Kulübü) and Galatasaray High School. The museum is open daily except Mondays from 10am to 6pm. Admission is free (as of July 2023), but everything is in Turkish.

 

Galatasaray Sports Club

The Galatasaray Museum begins on the second floor, where visitors learn about the history of the sports club. The club was founded on October 30, 1905, by Ali Sami Yen (1886-1951) and other students of the high school.

Founders of Galatasaray Sports Club at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Founders of Galatasaray Sports Club
Galatasaray Sports Club section at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray Sports Club section

On display are trophies, photos, and artifacts related to all sports practiced at the club. Wax figures of Yen and Turkish football legend Metin Oktay (1936-1991) are among the most prominent items.

Artifacts related to the sports club
Artifacts related to the sports club
Ali Sami Yen at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Ali Sami Yen
Metin Oktay at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Metin Oktay

 

Galatasaray High School

Moving down to the first floor, there are a few rooms chronicling the history of the high school. On display are old diplomas, paintings, documents, and other items of interest.

Galatasaray High School section at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray High School section
Ceiling at the Galatasaray Museum
Ceiling
Galatasaray High School section at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray High School section
Galatasaray High School section at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Galatasaray High School section

A small section includes the influence of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on the school. Of particular interest is an unwashed coffee cup used by Atatürk during a visit to the school on December 28, 1932.

Atatürk section at the Galatasaray Museum
Atatürk section
Coffee cup used by Atatürk
Coffee cup used by Atatürk

I was personally interested to see documents from the school in Greek and Armenian as well as in Ottoman Turkish and French. Diplomas were once granted in French and Ottoman Turkish.

Document in Greek at the Galatasaray Museum
Document in Greek
Document in Armenian at the Galatasaray Museum
Document in Armenian
Diploma at the Galatasaray Museum in Istanbul, Turkey
Diploma

 

Beyoğlu Han

To the right of the old post office is Beyoğlu Han, which I can’t find any information about. There used to be a café on the upper floors I always enjoyed visiting with friends. It features impressive stonework on the façade.

Beyoğlu Han on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Beyoğlu Han
Balcony on Beyoğlu Han on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Balcony

 

Yapı Kredi Cultural Center

Finally, across Yeni Çarşı Street is the Yapı Kredi Cultural Center (Yapı Kredi Kültür Sanat). The cultural center presents over 250 cultural events throughout the year as well as various temporary exhibitions ranging from photography to archaeology. There are also workshops and discussions. It’s open daily and admission is free (as of July 2023).

Yapı Kredi Cultural Center on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
Ground floor at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
Ground floor

 

Bookstore

The ground floor contains an attractive Turkish bookstore. To get to the upper floors, you need to pass through security to the left of the bookstore.

Bookstore at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
Bookstore
Bookstore at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
Bookstore

 

Exhibition Space

On the first through third levels of Yapı Kredi Cultural Center, you’ll find temporary exhibition space. During my visit, on the first level there was a timeline of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s visits to Istanbul. It was filled with photos, newspaper clippings, and information of Atatürk’s activities during the visits.

Entrance to the Atatürk exhibit at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center in Istanbul, Turkey
Entrance to the Atatürk exhibit
Atatürk exhibit at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center in Istanbul, Turkey
Atatürk exhibit
Atatürk exhibit at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center in Istanbul, Turkey
Atatürk exhibit

The second and third level contained sculptures by Turkish artist Halil Altındere, which was entertaining. Most were stationary wax figures, but there were also mechanical pieces as well.

The Monument of an Illegal Street Vendor (2019) by Halil Altındere at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center in Istanbul, Turkey
The Monument of an Illegal Street Vendor (2019) by Halil Altındere
Telephone Call from Istanbul (2019) by Halil Altındere at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center in Istanbul, Turkey
Telephone Call from Istanbul (2019) by Halil Altındere

 

Akdeniz

Walking up the stairs to the upper floors, there’s a great view of Galatasaray Square as well as a sculpture, Akdeniz, by Turkish sculptor İlhan Koman. The sculpture was made of iron between 1978 and 1980.

Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
View of Galatasaray Square
View of Galatasaray Square
Akdeniz (1978-80) by İlhan Koman at Yapı Kredi Cultural Center in Istanbul, Turkey
Akdeniz (1978-80) by İlhan Koman

 

Aznavur Passage

The first building of interest walking south past Galatasaray Square is Aznavur Passage (Aznavur Pasajı), which was built by the Ottoman Armenian Aznavur family in the early 20th century. In the past, the Aznavur family lived on the upper floors. Today, several small shops occupy the passage selling accessories, jewelry, clothing, and other goods.

Aznavur Passage
Aznavur Passage
Aznavur Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Aznavur Passage

 

Hazzopulo Passage

A couple doors down is Hazzopulo Passage (Hazzopulo Pasajı). It was built between the 1850s and 1871 but nobody is sure exactly who built it. Prominent Greeks named Hatzopoulos included a trader, a tailor, and two bankers. Armenian-Turkish photographer Ara Güler’s (1928-2018) father owned a pharmacy in the passage.

Hazzopulo Passage
Hazzopulo Passage

The entrance from Istiklal Street is a narrow passage lined with shops, many selling jewelry and accessories. It opens to a nice courtyard full of cafés.

Entrance to Hazzopulo Passage
Entrance to Hazzopulo Passage
Hazzopulo Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Hazzopulo Passage
Cafés at Hazzopulo Passage
Cafés at Hazzopulo Passage
Hazzopulo Passage in March 2012 on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Hazzopulo Passage in March 2012

 

Panagia Isodion Church

An alley off Hazzopulo Passage leads to Panagia Isodion Church (Meryem Ana Kilisesi). This Greek Orthodox church was built in 1804.

Panagia Isodion Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Panagia Isodion Church
Panagia Isodion Church
Panagia Isodion Church
Panagia Isodion Church

Visiting hours posted on the property state that it’s open daily from 8:30am to 6pm, but it has never been open the numerous times I’ve passed by. I’ve only been able to visit the narthex to light a candle.

Narthex of Panagia Isodion Church
Narthex
Narthex of Panagia Isodion Church
Narthex

If you do get into the narthex and the church isn’t open, take a peek through the keyhole. You’ll see a beautiful interior with a gold iconostasis.

Panagia Isodion Church
Panagia Isodion Church

 

Egypt Apartment (Mısır Apartmanı)

Further down Istiklal Street towards Tünel is the Egypt Apartment (Mısır Apartmanı), which is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city.

Egypt Apartment on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Egypt Apartment

 

History

The Egypt Apartment was built between 1905 and 1910 by Ottoman Armenian architect Hovsep Aznavur (1854-1935). It’s one of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Istanbul.

Lobby of the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Lobby
Stairwell of the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Stairwell

The building served as the winter home of Abbas II (1874-1944), the last Khedive of Egypt, and was later converted into several private apartments. Mehmet Akif Ersoy (1873-1936), poet and author of the Turkish National Anthem (İstiklal Marşı), lived the last six months of his life there. He died in the Egypt Apartment on December 27, 1936. Today, it hosts art galleries, a museum, and a restaurant on the top floor.

Biographies of Mehmet Akif Ersoy and Abbas II
Copy of the Turkish National Anthem in the lobby

 

Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House

The Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House (Mehmet Akif Ersoy Hatıra Evi) occupies the 3rd floor apartment in which the poet lived. It’s open daily and admission is free (as of July 2023).

Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House in the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House

Almost all of the information in the museum is in Turkish, but there are several artifacts on display that can tell Ersoy’s story without words. The main hall starts with a timeline of his life.

Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House in the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House
Timeline

On either side of the hall are two theaters. One projects a biography of Ersoy while another contains his poetry.

Biographical theater
Poetry theater

The museum continues with the first room on the left detailing Ersoy’s youth and years up until the Turkish War of Independence. It contains personal letters, photographs, and a detailed biography.

First room at the Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House in the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
First room
Personal letters
Photos and family registration card

The room is connected to a small room displaying the Turkish National Anthem in both Ottoman Turkish and modern Turkish script, and the anthem playing on a loop.

Turkish National Anthem at the Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House in the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Turkish National Anthem

The second room deals with Ersoy’s final years and legacy. On display are personal items such as his glasses and pocket watch, books he wrote, and more. There’s also a brief history of the Egypt Apartment on one wall.

Second room at the Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House in the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Second room
Personal items at the Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House in the Egypt Apartment in Istanbul, Turkey
Personal items

In the center of the second room is a glass display case with paper bills and coins minted in Ersoy’s honor. Stamps containing his likeness are also included.

Paper bills and coins
Stamps

 

St. Antoine Church

The Egypt Apartment sits next to the entrance to St. Antoine Church, which is covered in another post. It was built between 1906 and 1912 and is the largest Catholic church in Istanbul.

St. Antoine Church
St. Antoine Church

 

Alhambra Han

Across from the church is Alhambra Han (Elhamra Han). It was built by Şerif Adapazarlı between 1920 and 1922 and the architect is unknown. The building contains Ottoman, Seljuk, and Greek architectural elements. In the past, the Crystal Theatre (Kristal Tiyatro) stood on the site.

Alhambra Han
Alhambra Han
Alhambra Han on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Alhambra Han

 

SALT Beyoğlu

A bit further down across the street is SALT Beyoğlu, the sister branch of SALT Galata. It contains modern art exhibitions related to critical contemporary issues. It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of September 2023).

SALT Beyoğlu on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
SALT Beyoğlu

The building was built between 1850 and 1860 as the Siniossoglou Apartment. It was a residential building with retail space on the ground floor until the 1950s. After that, it was used mostly for retail, political, and artistic purposes.

 

Odakule

The stretch of elegant historic buildings on Istiklal Street is broken by Odakule, which looks completely out of place. This glass 23 story office building was built in 1976 and was the fourth tallest building in Istanbul upon completion. The architects were Kaya Tecimen and Ali Taner. It also faces Meşrutiyet Street in Tepebaşı.

Odakule
Odakule
Odakule

 

Beyoğlu Anatolian High School

Directly across from Odakule is the Beyoğlu Anatolian High School (Beyoğlu Anadolu Lisesi), which was built in 1901. It was originally the home of the Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe School, which was founded in 1858 to provide education for children of the British Embassy staff. The old building was donated to the school by Sultan Abdülmecid I. The school was closed for six years when the Ottoman-Russian War began in 1877, and again during World War I. It became the Beyoğlu Anatolian High School in 1979.

Beyoğlu Anatolian High School on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Beyoğlu Anatolian High School

 

Surp Yerrortutyun Armenian Catholic Church

Out of plain sight in an alley next to Odakule is Surp Yerrortutyun Armenian Catholic Church (Surp Yerrortutyun Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi). It was originally built in the beginning of the 18th century by four Austrian priests. The church served as the city’s Latin Catholic cathedral from 1802 to 1854. It burned down in 1762 and 1831 and was rebuilt both times. It was purchased by Armenian Catholics on May 25, 1857.

Surp Yerrortutyun Armenian Catholic Church

 

Casa Garibaldi

Hidden behind the entrance to the Armenian church is Casa Garibaldi, which was built in 1884 by French-Ottoman architect Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921). It became the home of the Italian Workers Society of Mutual Aid in Constantinople (Societa Operaia Italiana di Mutuo Soccorso in Costantinopoli), which was founded in 1863. This Italian building underwent an extensive renovation and reopened as a cultural venue in late 2018.

Casa Garibaldi
Casa Garibaldi

Casa Garibaldi is typically open from Thursday to Sunday. When I attempted to enter, I was rudely shooed away by a woman working there who told me “there’s nothing to see”.

Sign on Casa Garibaldi
Sign on Casa Garibaldi

 

Netherlands Palace

The next interesting building is the Netherlands Palace (Hollanda Sarayı), which houses the Dutch Consulate. Dutch diplomatic representation has been located on the site since 1714. The current building was built in 1859 by Italian architect Giovanni Battista Barborini as the Dutch Embassy. The complex is behind a huge iron gate and hidden by other buildings. It also contains a chapel used by the Union Church of Istanbul (see below).

Dutch Consulate
Dutch Consulate
Dutch Consulate on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Dutch Consulate

 

156 Istiklal Street

A bit further down is 156 Istiklal Street, which is one of a handful of buildings along this stretch of the street for which I don’t have any information.

156 Istiklal on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
156 Istiklal

 

Meşher

Across the street is 211 Istiklal Street, which hosts art exhibition space Meşher. The building was once known as the Friedmann Apartments and later Meymaret Han. The architect may have been Petraki Mimaridis, but the construction date is unknown.

Meşher
Meşher

The entrance to Meşher is just down Postacılar Street, which leads down to Tomtom Kaptan Street. Admission is free (as of October 2023) and it’s open daily except Mondays. Arter, a modern art museum, occupied the building from 2010 to 2018. It moved to a much larger modern building in Dolapdere in September 2019.

Meşher on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Meşher

 

Union Church of Istanbul

A bit further down Postacılar Street is the entrance to the Dutch Chapel, which is used by the Union Church of Istanbul. The chapel was built in 1711 and has been used by the Union Church since 1857. Interdenominational services are held every Sunday at 9:30am and 11am.

Union Church
Union Church

 

Santa Maria Draperis Church

Just down from 211 Istiklal Street is the entrance to Santa Maria Draperis Church, which is covered in another post. It dates back to the late 18th century and is well worth a visit. A staircase leads down to the entrance of the church.

Santa Maria Draperis Church
Santa Maria Draperis Church

 

Borusan Sanat

Borusan Sanat sits across the street from the church. It contains a concert hall and exhibition space, focusing on music and visual arts. Information about event tickets is available on the website.

Borusan Sanat
Borusan Sanat
Borusan Sanat on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Borusan Sanat

 

Syria Passage

Next door is Syria Passage (Suriye Pasajı). It was built between 1901 and 1908 by Ottoman Greek architect Dimitri Vassiliadis as three separate buildings that were later connected. The lower floors are used for retail while the upper floors are apartments. Above the entrance is an inscription of the building’s name in French, Cité de Syrie.

Syria Passage
Syria Passage
Inscription in French above the entrance to Syria Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription in French above the entrance

The local Greek newspaper, Apoyevmatini (Απογευματινή), was published in the building from July 1925 to October 2014. The French newspaper, Stamboul, was printed there between 1875 and 1964. It also held a cinema, Cine Central (Santral Sineması) starting in 1911.

Syria Passage
Syria Passage

 

Russian Consulate

A few steps away and across the street are the gates of the Russian Consulate. It was built between 1838 and 1845 as the Russian Embassy. The Fossati brothers were sent to Constantinople by Tsar Nicholas I as the architects of the building. Their success led to more projects in the city, and they were eventually appointed by Sultan Abdülmecid I to renovate Hagia Sophia in 1847.

Russian Consulate
Russian Consulate

 

Oriental Passage

Opposite the Russian Consulate is Oriental Passage (Passage Oriental), which was originally built in 1840 and was one of the most elegant arcades on Istiklal Street. It was also known as the Marquise Passage (Markiz Pasajı).

Oriental Passage and Markiz Pastanesi on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Oriental Passage and Markiz Pastanesi
Oriental Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Oriental Passage

The building was once home to elegant pastry shops Lebon Pastanesi from the 1850s to 1940, and Markiz Pastanesi from 1940 to 1970. If you peek inside the window, you can still see some of the grandeur of the old Markiz Pastanesi. Lebon has since relocated a few doors away.

Markiz Pastanesi
Markiz Pastanesi

 

Hidivyal Palace

On the next corner across the street is the Hidivyal Palace (Hidivyal Palas), which was built in the early 1900s. It stood on the site of the former Hotel d’Anglaterre, which first opened in 1841. It was the first traditional hotel in the Ottoman Empire. The Hotel d’Anglaterre was the best hotel in Constantinople for over 50 years until the Pera Palace and Grand Hotel de Londres opened. It ceased operations in 1897 and the building was demolished.

Hidivyal Palace
Hidivyal Palace

 

Casa Botter

Nearby is Casa Botter, which was commissioned in 1901 by Jean Botter, the Dutch personal tailor to Sultan Abdülhamid II. It’s a stunning Art Nouveau building by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco (1857-1932). Botter used the building as his winter home. He had a summer home in Kalamış.

Casa Botter
Casa Botter

Casa Botter has been in a dilapidated state for a long time, but the building was undergoing an extensive renovation during my last visit in May 2022. I look forward to seeing the results in the near future. The building will host an arts center.

Casa Botter under restoration in May 2022

 

Swedish Palace

The Swedish Consulate sits in the Swedish Palace (İsveç Sarayı), just past Casa Botter and behind a fence. It was built in 1870 by Austrian architect Domenico Pulgher as the Swedish Embassy. The land was purchased in 1757 and is Sweden’s oldest state property abroad. The upper floor is used as the private residence of the Consul General. A chapel built in 1858 and used by a Protestant congregation is also on the grounds.

Gates to the Swedish Consulate
Gates to the Swedish Consulate
Grounds of the Swedish Consulate on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Grounds of the Swedish Consulate
Swedish Palace on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Swedish Palace

 

Narmanlı Han

Finally, opposite the Swedish Palace is Narmanlı Han. It was built in 1831 to house the Russian Embassy and then a Russian prison until 1914. In the center is a large courtyard. When I first moved to Istanbul in 2010, the building was in terrible condition. It was renovated between February 2016 and September 2017, and the work was heavily criticized.

Narmalı Han before restoration in April 2012 on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Narmalı Han before restoration in April 2012
Narmalı Han after restoration in October 2018
Courtyard of Narmalı Han before restoration in April 2012 on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard before restoration in April 2012
Courtyard of Narmanlı Han after restoration in October 2019 on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard after restoration in October 2019

The courtyard of Narmanlı Han contains a Starbucks and the Museum of Illusions as well as other retail space and restaurants. A fountain now sits in the middle as well.

Fountain
Fountain

 

Museum of Illusions

The Museum of Illusions is a tourist trap but it can be a fun place to kill time and take some trick photos. Adult admission to the museum is 450₺ (as of October 2023) and it’s open daily.

Museum of Illusions
Museum of Illusions
Museum of Illusions
Museum of Illusions

There are a several optical illusions along the walls but the trick photo scenes are the real attractions. It’s best to go in a group of more than two, but friendly staff members are on hand to take photos if necessary.

Trick photo at the Museum of Illusions on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Trick photo
Falling off a building at the Museum of Illusions
Falling off a building
Stuck to the ceiling at the Museum of Illusions
Stuck to the ceiling

 

Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center

A few steps down the street next to the Swedish Palace is the Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center (Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi). It’s housed in the former marriage office, which functioned there until 1993 and served as a cultural center from 1993 to 2017. The Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center contains exhibition halls, a theatre, and film screening room. It’s typically open daily.

Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center

 

Tünel Passage Office Building

The final building of note is the Tünel Passage Office Building (Tünel Geçidi İş Hanı), which contains a beautiful arcade lined with restaurants. The exact construction date of the building is unknown, but it’s through to have been built between 1883 and 1885.

Tünel Passage Office Building along Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Tünel Passage Office Building
Building containing Tünel Passage on Istiklal Street in Istanbul, Turkey
Building containing Tünel Passage
Tünel Passage
Tünel Passage

 

End of the Road…

At the end of Istiklal Street is Tünel. The Galata Mevlevi Lodge Museum is just past the end of Istiklal Street and Galata Tower is further downhill. Şişhane metro station sits at the corner of the Swedish Embassy. At the end of the road leading down the hill is Serdar-ı Ekrem Street, which winds down to the Crimea Memorial Church.

Looking north down Istiklal Street
Looking north down Istiklal Street

 

Map of Istiklal Street

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.