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The Church of St. George (Καθεδρικός ναός του Αγίου Γεωργίου / Aya Yorgi Kilisesi) has been the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople since 1600. It’s located in the Fener neighborhood of Istanbul.
History
The Church of St. George was originally part of a convent of Orthodox nuns. It was converted to the Patriarchal Church in 1600 by Patriarch Matthew II (d. 1603). Patriarch Timothy II (d. 1620) refurbished the church in 1614 and Patriarch Jeremias III (c. 1650-1735) rebuilt it after a fire in 1720. It has been destroyed by fire several times, most recently in 1941, and almost no structural feature of the original church exists. The church as seen today dates back mostly to a reconstruction in 1797.
Other churches to serve as the Patriarchal Church are Hagia Eirini; Megali Ekklisia; Hagia Sophia; Hagia Sophia in Nicaea (Iznik) (1205-1262); Church of the Holy Apostles (1453-1456), where the Fatih Mosque is now located; the Pammakaristos Church (1456-1587); the Church of the Virgin Paramythia (1587-1597) in Fener; and the Church of St. Demetrios Xyloportas (1597-1600) in Ayvansaray.
Narthex
Inside the entrance is the narthex. It features an intricate entrance to the nave and is flanked by icons. To the left is an icon of Prophet Elijah wearing fur in memory of the furriers who installed a water system at the Ecumenical Patriarchate. To the right is an icon of St. George, for whom the church is dedicated.
There are two candle stands in the narthex. To the left is the candle stand currently in use. To the right is a 17th century candle stand made of walnut with inlaid ivory petals in the shape of pentagons. It’s a replica of early Egyptian craftsmanship.
During visiting hours, the only entrance to the nave is a door that opens to the left aisle. The central doors are only open during church services. The doors to the left and right aisles are topped with icons, while an inscription also sits above the door to the right aisle.
Nave
Once inside the dimly lit nave of the church, the grandeur associated with Orthodox churches is more evident as compared to the exterior. It’s still quite modest for such an important place of worship.
Pulpit
One of the first things visitors notice while walking towards the altar is the pulpit. It’s wrapped around a column and made of walnut with inlaid mother-of-pearl. The pulpit is traditionally attributed to St. John Chrysostom (c. 347-407) but an inscription dates it to Patriarch Gabriel III (d. 1707).
Throne
One of the most interesting features in the nave is the Patriarchal Throne. It’s traditionally attributed to St. John Chrysostom but an inscription dates it to 1577. It’s four meters tall and shaped like a vine. The throne is made of walnut and inlaid with mother of pearl, ivory, and colored wood. The 17th century icon of Christ Pantocrator on the throne was commissioned by Patriarch Paisius I (d. 1688).
Cantor Stands
Just past the throne on either side of the nave are two cantor stands. They’re made of walnut with inlaid ivory. They were transferred to the church in 1942 from the Byzantine church of Panagia Kamariotissa on Halki (Heybeliada).
Iconostasis
The most striking feature of the Church of St. George is the wooden iconostasis covered in gold leaf. It separates the nave from the altar and is divided into three levels. The iconostasis was made in the 18th century and features a mixture of Byzantine, Renaissance, Baroque, and Ottoman styles.
Relics of the Three Hierarchs
In the left aisle of the nave, visitors will find the stairs up to the pulpit as well as the relics of three important bishops. They were the most influential theologians of the early church and are celebrated throughout the Christian world.
The relics belong to St. Basil the Great (330-379), St. Gregory the Theologian (c. 329-390), and St. John Chrysostom. They rest in marble reliquaries with an icon of each saint in front.
After the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the relics of these three saints were looted and taken from Constantinople to Rome. Pope John Paul II (1920-2005) returned the relics of St. Gregory the Theologian and St. John Chrysostom to the Ecumenical Patriarchate in November 2004, 800 years after the Sack of Constantinople. A plaque in Latin on top of their reliquaries commemorates their return. The relics of St. Basil were returned at a later date.
Icon of Panagia Faneromeni of Cyzicus
Also in the left aisle is a priceless Byzantine icon of Panagia Faneromeni of Cyzicus (Κύζικος). It may date back to the 12th century and is entirely covered in gold and silver except for the faces and hands of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The icon was brought to the Church of St. George when Greeks from Artaki (Αρτάκη, now Erdek) were forced to leave their homes during the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923. Artaki was inhabited after ancient Cyzicus was abandoned in the 11th century.
Relics of Three Women
On the right aisle are the relics of three female saints in caskets. They include St. Euphemia (d. 303), who was martyred in Chalcedon (now Kadıköy), and St. Theophano (866-897), the wife of Byzantine Emperor Leo VI the Wise. The third set of relics is attributed to St. Solomone, the mother of the Maccabees, but probably belongs to Mary Salome, one of the myrrh-bearing women who witnessed the Resurrection. An icon stands in front of each Casket.
Icon of Panagia Pammakaristos
Next is a Byzantine mosaic icon of Panagia Pammakaristos, which was the most important icon in the Patriarchal Church of the Pammakaristos. It dates back to the mid-11th century and depicts the Virgin Mary holding the infant Christ in a depiction of the Hodegetria. When the Pammakaristos Church was converted into the Fethiye Mosque in 1597, the icon moved with the Ecumenical Patriarchate to its next location and has featured in all subsequent Patriarchal Churches. The icon is very fragile and in serious need of restoration.
Icon of St. John the Baptist
Along the iconostasis is a Byzantine mosaic icon of St. John the Baptist. Like the Panagia Pammakaristos mosaic, it also came from the Pammakaristos Church and dates back to the mid-11th century.
Pillar of Flagellation
Finally, in the corner of the right aisle is a section of the Pillar of Flagellation. Christ was chained to this pillar and whipped during His Passion. Two other sections believed to exist are in Rome and at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
Church Services
On Sundays and major holidays, the church is jam-packed with Orthodox Christian worshippers from all over the world. It’s quite a scene to witness the Patriarch officiating a service alongside many bishops. I was able to take a not-so-clear video on my old iPhone 3GS on November 28, 2010.
On September 15, 2011, I was at the church for a service on the feast day of St. Euphemia. Her coffin was in front of the altar and open for pilgrims to venerate her relics.
On October 3, 2019, I was able to witness a ceremony of priests being elected and elevated as bishops.
