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La Latina is a neighborhood occupying the oldest part of Madrid, Spain. It sits in the area that was once within the city walls of the Islamic citadel.
La Latina is named after Beatriz Galindo, who was a writer and also the teacher of Queen Isabella I. She was famous for her command of the Latin language, earning the nickname “La Latina”.
Church of San Andrés
I started my exploration of La Latina at Plaza de los Carros, where the Church of San Andrés (Iglesia de San Andrés) is located. The church was built between 1642 and 1669 using the ruins of the previous church that stood on the site, which in turn stood on the former site of a mosque.
The previous church was the parish church of San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore the Laborer) and his wife, Santa María de la Cabeza. The chapel was built on the site of the saint’s house, and is now part of the San Isidro Museum.
If it’s open, it’s well worth popping inside for a look. The interior is stunning. Photography is forbidden inside.
Plaza de la Paja
Walking north of the church, I ran into Plaza de la Paja. It was the city’s main market from the 13th to 15th centuries and is now surrounded by some restaurants with outdoor seating.
Bishop’s Chapel
On the south end of the plaza is the Bishop’s Chapel (Capilla del Obispo), officially the Chapel of Our Lady and Saint John Lateran (Capilla de Nuestra Señora y de San Juan de Letrán). The Bishop’s Chapel was built in 1669 to hold the remains of San Isidro Labrador. His remains were moved to the Collegiate Church of San Isidro el Real (Colegiata de San Isidro el Real) in the 18th century. To the left is the Vargas Palace (Palacio de los Vargas), which was built in the 15th century as a private residence. It later served as a theatre and office building.
Garden of Prince Anglona
North of Plaza de la Paja is the Garden of Prince Anglona (Jardín del Príncipe Anglona). This pleasant garden was designed in 1761 and restored in the beginning of the 20th century. It retains its original layout and brick paths.
The palace next to the garden was built in the 17th century and belonged to the heirs of Álvaro de Benavides. In the 18th century, it was the home of Pedro de Alcántara Téllez-Girón, a Spanish military officer better known as the Prince of Anglona, which gives the garden its name.
Plaza de la Cruz Verde
Across the street just north of the garden is Plaza de la Cruz Verde. This is the location of the Fountain of Diana the Hunter (Fuente de Diana Cazadora). It was inaugurated in 1850.
Moorish Quarter
The area west of Plaza de la Paja forms the Moorish Quarter (La Morería), which was the Muslim quarter of Madrid after the Christians took the city in the 11th century. It’s a pleasant place to walk with narrow streets and nice buildings. I walked down Calle de la Morería and through Plaza de la Morería.
Segovia Viaduct
Walking down Calle de Caños Viejos from Plaza de la Morería, you’ll come to a small area with great views of the Segovia Viaduct (Viaducto de Segovia). The bridge spans a deep ravine. In the Middle Ages, people had to walk down the ravine and back up the other side in order to go from La Latina to the Royal Palace. The first bridge opened on October 13, 1874 and was replaced by the current bridge in 1934. It was heavily damaged in the Siege of Madrid during the Spanish Civil War, restored to its original specifications, and reopened on March 28, 1942. The bridge was refurbished and modernized from 1977 to 1978.
Church of San Pedro el Viejo
East of Plaza de la Paja is the Church of San Pedro el Viejo (Iglesia de San Pedro el Viejo). It was originally built in the 14th century and features a Mudéjar bell tower that resembles a minaret. Usually closed to the public, the church holds the remains of kings Alfonso I of Asturias (693-757) and Ramiro II of León (900-951).
Cebada Market
If you walk south from the Church of San Pedro el Viejo, you’ll come to the Cebada Market (Mercado de la Cebada). This huge colorful market building that dates back to 1868. The original building was designed by Mariano Calvo y Pereira and was one of the city’s most important markets, but it had to be demolished in 1956 due to problems with hygiene. It was rebuilt in 1958 as a neighborhood market.
Inside the market building are several stalls selling fruits and vegetables, fresh fish, meats, cheeses, and other delicious goods. There’s a nice mural of Madrid on the second level behind the lifts.
La Latina Theatre
The La Latina Theatre (Teatro La Latina) sits down the street to the east of the market. It opened in 1919 and has a capacity of 927 people. It has been one of the most important theatres in Spain, especially for comedy productions.
Tapas
Just north of the market are two streets filled with plenty of tapas bars. Calle Cava Alta and Calle Cava Baja will definitely satisfy your appetite. The more scenic of the two is Calle Cava Baja, which also has several more tapas bars.
Calle de Toledo
Walking south from the market down Calle de Toledo, you’ll pass a monument to Fernando VII (1784-1833), who was twice king of Spain.
Toledo Gate
At the end of the street is a roundabout with the Toledo Gate (Puerta de Toledo) in the center. This was one of 19 city gates on the Walls of Felipe IV. It was built between 1812 and 1827.
Basilica of San Francisco
Technically not in La Latina but very near is the Royal Basilica of San Francisco the Great (Real Basílica de San Francisco el Grande). It’s one of the most important landmarks in Madrid and is located a few blocks west of Plaza de los Carros. It was built between 1761 and 1784 and has the fourth largest dome in the world. Click here to read about my visit.
Attached to the right side of a basilica is a building with a plaque on it. According to tradition, in 1217 Saint Francis of Assisi constructed a hut and hermitage on the site where the building now stands.
Dahlia Garden
To the left of the basilica is a dahlia garden, the Dalieda de San Francisco. It stands on the site of the former Convent of San Francisco, which was built in the 13th and 14th century. The building later housed a military barracks and prison until it was demolished in 1961. The Dalieda opened on May 7, 2007.
There are several sections with different dahlia specimens. At the back of the garden is a sculpture and a fence with some great views of the outskirts of the city. You can also see the side profile of the Basilica of San Francisco.
Getting There
To get to La Latina, you can take the metro to either La Latina or Puerta de Toledo, which are both on Line 5.
