Last updated on December 20, 2023.

Viterbo is a small town in the Caldas department of Colombia. It sits in a valley and is approached via a gorgeous tree lined road with a bike path.

Two men sitting in the plaza of Viterbo
Two men sitting in the plaza

Viterbo was founded on April 19, 1911, but was not officially made a municipality until December 31, 1951. It’s principal industry is sugarcane, and it’s becoming a vacation destination due to the many condos that have been constructed in and around the town.

Sugarcane
Sugarcane

 

Tunnel of the Samanes

The road heading into town is called the Tunnel of the Samanes (Túnel de los Samanes). Huge samán trees line both sides of the road creating a tunnel almost all the way into town.

Tunnel of the Samanes on the road to Viterbo
Tunnel of the Samanes

Since 2016, a local artist, Chalomenez Xkultr, has been creating sculptures along the road out of samán trees that have died. We were able to catch him in action and have a quick chat about his work.

Marisol with Chalomenez Xkultr
Marisol with Chalomenez Xkultr
Tribute to musicians (December 2016)
Tribute to musicians (December 2016)
Colombian coffee
Colombian coffee

He carves the trees and another local artist paints them. As of our last visit in May 2019, there were eight sculptures in all with another not yet unveiled. There are plans to create more sculptures out of a few more trees that have died.

Pachamama (September 2017)
Pachamama (September 2017)
Church
Church
Virgin and Child
Virgin and Child
Butterflies
Butterflies

 

Plaza

While the entrance to town is very scenic, the town itself is a bit of a disappointment. Other than a very spacious plaza filled with trees, there’s not much more see. The plaza is surrounded by a few nice colonial buildings.

Plaza in Viterbo, Caldas, Colombia
Plaza
Plaza in Viterbo
Plaza
Plaza
A path through the plaza
Buildings on the plaza
Buildings on the plaza

On one end of the plaza is the Immaculate Church (Iglesia La Inmaculada). It’s quite bare inside.

Iglesia La Inmaculada
Immaculate Church
Iglesia La Inmaculada
Immaculate Church

 

Mirador Alto Palatino

A few blocks uphill from the plaza is Mirador Alto Palatino. It’s free to climb up to an observation deck with beautiful views of the town and countryside. It’s open from Tuesday to Friday from 10am to noon and again from 2pm to 5:30pm. On Saturdays, it’s only open from 10am to noon. There’s a mural opposite the entrance.

Mirador Alto Palatino in Viterbo
Mirador Alto Palatino
Mirador Alto Palatino
Mirador Alto Palatino
Mural
Mural

 

La Costeña

We asked some locals for a restaurant recommendation. Most of them steered us towards La Costeña. We each had the set menu and were both unhappy with the quality of the food. The meal consisted of meatball soup, grilled chicken breast, fries, salad, and a drink. It brought back not-so-fond memories of my elementary school lunches.

When we first visited in 2015, La Costeña was situated on the plaza next to the church. It has since moved a couple blocks away (see the map below).

 

La Fonda

Since that first visit in 2015, a new local favorite has popped up. La Fonda is tucked away on a road near the entrance to town. It’s run by the same owners as La Fonda in Belén de Umbría and has the same menu. This one, however, is situated on a large finca outside town. There’s plenty of space for kids to run and play, and it’s in a peaceful environment.

La Fonda in Viterbo, Caldas, Colombia
La Fonda
Field

The food is just as good as La Fonda in Belén. I had the frijoles montañeros, which is beans with a plate of chicharron, chorizo, patacón, rice, salad, and a fried egg.

Frijoles montañeros

 

Getting There

Viterbo is located just over an hour from the bus terminal in Pereira. It’s served by Transporte Zapata and Transportes Viterbo.

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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