Last updated on December 19, 2023.

Midway through the first day of our trip to the peninsula of La Guajira, we were taken down a very bumpy road through the desert. The path would lead us to the small village of Cabo de la Vela. This village made up of mostly simple huts is famous for kitesurfing and can be quite difficult to get to.

 

Getting There

While on the road, local Wayúu children would emerge from their homes and pull a rope across the road to stop our truck. They would rush to the window and wouldn’t let us pass until the driver and Pedro would give them candy and coins. This happened at least ten times along the way.

Wayúu children holding a rope across the road in La Guajira, Colombia
Wayúu children holding a rope across the road
Giving candy and coins to the Wayúu in La Guajira, Colombia
Giving candy and coins to the Wayúu

 

Wayúu Ranch

We arrived at a Wayúu ranch about 30 minutes from the actual village of Cabo de la Vela. It was comprised of a few concrete cabanas, a dining hut, and a hut with chinchorros (special hammocks) for sleeping outside.

Wayúu ranch near Cabo de la Vela in La Guajira, Colombia
Wayúu ranch

Our meals, a lunch and dinner, were less than desirable, but the conversation was fantastic. We listened attentively to Pedro’s explanations about the differences between the various indigenous groups living in La Guajira and the Sierra Nevada near Santa Marta. It was quite fascinating and entertaining.

To sleep, were given the option of sleeping in the chinchorros or in a cabana for an extra cost. We decided on the cabana for comfort reasons.

 

Cabo de la Vela

After lunch at the ranch, we went for a quick stop in Cabo de la Vela for a swim. I noticed a lot of cabanas offering places to sleep for the night along with small restaurants, but not many tourists at all. It’s not the nicest beach and the cleanliness left a lot to be desired, but it was refreshing.

Cabo de la Vela, La Guajira, Colombia
Cabo de la Vela

 

El Ojo del Agua

We were then taken to El Ojo del Agua, a gorgeous beach and collection of rocky outcrops jutting out to the Caribbean Sea. We were given time to explore the area a bit and walked to the first couple outcrops. It was extremely windy so I made sure I didn’t get too close to the edge! I also had to be very careful with my camera because of the tiny drops of water causing some moisture issues. When we looked down, we were able to see sea turtles and crabs below, along with a great view of the beach and the other outcrops.

El Ojo del Agua, La Guajira, Colombia
El Ojo del Agua
El Ojo del Agua, La Guajira, Colombia
Rocky outcrop at El Ojo del Agua

 

El Faro

Just before sunset, Pedro took us to El Faro. This is where Cabo de la Vela’s lighthouse is located. The scenery was breathtaking but the sunset was not as spectacular as it could have been because of low hanging clouds.

El Faro, La Guajira, Colombia
El Faro

 

Wind Farm

On the fourth and final day of our trip of La Guajira, we made a short return to Cabo de la Vela. After returning by boat from Punta Gallinas, we were shown a wind farm that provides much needed electricity to the area. I praise wind farms for their cleanliness but I despise them for ruining the natural surroundings.

Wind farm near Cabo de la Vela, La Guajira, Colombia
Wind farm

 

Sugar Pylon

Next, we arrived at the Sugar Pylon (Pilón de Azúcar), a small hill that happens to be the highest point in the area. It is also sacred land to the Wayúu. They believe that the souls of their deceased travel to the afterlife from there.

Pilón de Azúcar, La Guajira, Colombia
Sugar Pylon

On the very top of the hill is a small shrine to Our Lady of Fátima built by Spanish pearl divers in 1938.

Shrine to La Virgen de Fátima at Pilón de Azúcar, La Guajira, Colombia
Shrine to Our Lady of Fátima

Climbing to the top is well worth it and it takes less than ten minutes. The views are spectacular.

View from the top of Pilón de Azúcar, La Guajira, Colombia
View from the top of the Sugar Pylon
View from the top of Pilón de Azúcar, La Guajira, Colombia
View from the top of the Sugar Pylon

 

Playa del Pilón

At the parking lot for the mountain is a small beach, Playa del Pilón. It looked like the most beautiful and swimmable beach in all of La Guajira that we had encountered, with crystal clear water and soft powdery sand, but unfortunately we were too short on time to swim. I was disappointed about this.

Playa del Pilón, La Guajira, Colombia
Playa del Pilón

 

End of the Tour

After the mountain, we returned to the Wayúu ranch for our third disappointing meal there, a quick breakfast, and the tour was over. We returned to Riohacha on another long and bumpy ride for transport back to Santa Marta with Pedro.

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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