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Santa Marta was founded in 1525 and is the second oldest surviving European settlement in South America. The historic city center has really changed for the better since my first visit in 2014 and is a nice place to explore for a few hours.
Most of the interesting spots are within a few blocks of each other in the historic city center. Everything you really need to see is between the blocks of Calle 12 and Calle 22 from north to south, and from the seaside to Carrera 5 from west to east. It’s not a very big area at all. This post covers landmarks in that area that can’t be found in one of the plazas, parks, or along the sea.
House of the Viceroys
Starting north and working our way south, a block north of Parque de Bolívar on Calle 12 is the House of the Viceroys (Casa de Los Virreyes). It was built in 1799 by Royal Treasurer Francisco Xavier de Ainzuriza and is one of the oldest homes remaining in the city from colonial times.
Casa Goenaga
Just east of Casa de Los Virreyes is Casa Goenaga. It was built in 1916 by the governor of the department of Magdalena, Florentino Goenaga Gómez. It later served as the San Pedro Alejandrino Library (Biblioteca San Pedro Alejandrino), a Colombian law library with over 10,000 volumes; the French Alliance (Alianza Francesa), which operated an art gallery, French language academy, and cultural center; and the Santa Marta town hall administrative offices.
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
About a block east of Parque de Bolívar is the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi (Iglesia de San Francisco de Asís). It was originally built in 1597. In 1676, Welsh pirate Sir Henry Morgan occupied the temple and converted it into a prison. The church was partially destroyed in an earthquake in 1834 and rebuilt in 1860.
The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi sits on Plaza San Francisco, which once served as the city’s public market.
Post Office
About a block south of Parque de Bolívar on Calle 16 is the well-preserved former Post Office (Casa del Correo). It was built in the middle of the 18th century and is now used for commercial purposes. Below are two photos taken about five years apart. Personally, I like the old paint job better!
House of the Marquis of Santa Coa
A block west of the Post Office is the House of the Marquis of Santa Coa (Casa del Marqués de Santa Coa). It was the home of one of the richest families in the city, the Mier y Benítez family, who owned many estates, businesses, and buildings in Santa Marta. It was built around 1800 by Gabriel Díaz Granados and sold to the Mier y Benítez family who gave the house its name. Recently, it has hosted commercial space.
San Juan Nepomuceno Royal Conciliar Seminary
A block south on Carrera 2 is the San Juan Nepomuceno Royal Conciliar Seminary (Real Seminario Conciliar San Juan Nepomuceno), which was one of the most important religious centers during colonial times. Construction started in 1671 and wasn’t completed until 1811. It was given its current name in 1842, and has housed several different educational institutions as well as government offices. Since 2001, it has been the home of the Magdalena University’s (Universidad del Magdalena) cultural center, art museum, and ethnography museum.
Casa Ujueta
On the opposite corner is Casa Ujueta, which is in terrible condition. The owner of this house, which was built in the 18th century, was Manuel Ujueta y Bisais, a friend of liberator Simón Bolívar. In 1837, when he heard Bolívar’s tomb was damaged, he spared no expense to repair it. Ujueta also held the liberator’s remains in his house for three days to protect them from his enemies, who had planned to steal them and dump them into the sea. The remains were later taken to the Santa Marta Cathedral.
Casa Noguera
Just east of Casa Ujueta, along Calle 17, is Casa Noguera, which was built in the 18th century and is very well preserved. It was owned for several years by the Noguera family. In 1882, there was a store selling fruits that were grown on the property. Nowadays, it serves as the city’s public registration office.
Hospital San Juan de Dios
On Carrera 1, facing the southern end of the malecón, is the former Hospital San Juan de Dios. It was founded in 1746 and remained a hospital until 1813. Between 1813 and 1880, it was used as a barracks and later a medical school. In 1880, it became a charity hospital until it was abandoned in 1991, when the new Santa Marta hospital opened. It currently holds the department of Magdalena’s culture and tourism office, historical archives, and a passport office.
San Juan de Dios Chapel
Just east of the former hospital, along Calle 22, is the San Juan de Dios Chapel (Capilla San Juan de Dios). This small chapel was built in 1746 at the same time as the hospital. Friends and family of the sick who were taken to the hospital would come to pray in the chapel.
Graffiti
Wandering around the historic center of Santa Marta, you’ll be able to spot some interesting and impressive graffiti. There are murals on most streets in the city.
Artisan Center
Finally, if you’re into shopping, there is the Artisan Center (Centro Artesenal) where you can find all kinds of arts, handmade crafts, jewelry, and souvenirs of Colombia. It’s located a couple blocks from Parque de Los Novios walking towards the sea.
