Last updated on February 10, 2024.

The small town of Belén de Umbría is my home in Colombia. It is a coffee growing town that sits up in the mountains surrounded by a beautiful green landscape and part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia.

Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Belén de Umbría

The people in Belén are very friendly and welcoming and it didn’t take long for me to feel like a local after moving here. I came here to teach English but quickly realized it’s a great place to live.

 

About Belén de Umbría

Belén de Umbría was founded on August 10, 1890, by Antonio María Hoyos Gómez, José María Londoño, Isidro Flórez, and others. Its original name was Arenales and was changed to Belén in 1902.

Bench in the plaza
Bench in the plaza

Belén is a farming community that sits on the side of a mountain. The streets can be very steep. It might be difficult to walk up and down some of the streets, but the views are stunning and at least it keeps me in shape.

A street in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
A street in Belén de Umbría
A stairway in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Stairway
Looking up a steep road in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Looking up a steep road

Residents of Belén can find almost anything they need in town. There’s a hospital, shops selling all kinds of household goods, and some very good schools. Children join football teams and play tournaments in the stadium. Other than coffee, farmers grow plantains, avocado, and some tropical fruits in the nearby mountains.

Stadium
Stadium

The weather in Belén is a bit cooler than many nearby towns because it’s at a higher elevation. Mornings are nice and comfortable, the afternoons can get very hot, but once the sun sets behind the mountain, the nights become crisp and cool. The weather can change in an instant. Sometimes clouds roll over the mountains quickly and heavy rains pass through, but they typically don’t last very long.

The view from my old apartment in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
The view from my old apartment

Culture is also important to the town. Belén’s small museum is excellent and the Casa de la Cultura often puts on plays, dance performances, and more.

 

Main Plaza in Belén de Umbría

Life in Belén revolves around the main plaza. Here, you can find several shops, restaurants, bars, clubs, and cafés. Locals love to drink coffee and aguardiente, dance, and listen to music. Music plays loudly past 1am on most nights. On weekends, the plaza is jam packed with people loading up jeeps and coming in from rural areas to go shopping.

Plaza in 2014 in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Plaza in 2014
Plaza in 2022 in Belén de Umbría
Plaza in 2022
View of the plaza from the church in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
View of the plaza from the church

One common sight in the plaza is the jeeps with sacks full of coffee beans and plantains packed on top, and people hanging off the sides and back. They’re also used for transportation to more rural areas, and sometimes to other towns.

Jeeps in the plaza in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Jeeps in the plaza
Jeeps in the plaza in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Jeeps in the plaza

 

Church of Santa Rosa de Lima

On the plaza is the Church of Santa Rosa de Lima. It’s simple inside but it’s an important symbol of the town. The first church was a small chapel completed in 1902, which was officially consecrated by the first bishop of Manizales, Gregorio Nacianceno Hoyos Yarza. Another church was built in the 1930s, but it was replaced with the current building in the 1940s. The bell tower stands 45 meters high and contains bells brought from France in 1928.

Church of Santa Rosa de Lima in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Church of Santa Rosa de Lima

The church was gutted by a fire on September 14, 1952, and was completely redesigned. Construction was finished in 1955. Stained glass windows made in Medellín and Cali were added, with funds donated by local families.

Church of Santa Rosa de Lima
Church of Santa Rosa de Lima

 

Guillermo Jesús González Ospina House

Just uphill from the plaza is the only building I’ve spotted with a historical marker. The building was the birthplace of Guillermo Jesús González Ospina (1919-1962), the writer of the lyrics for the pasodoble of the Manizales Fair (Feria de Manizales).

Guillermo Jesús González Ospina House
Guillermo Jesús González Ospina House

 

Farmers Market

On the first Sunday of every month, there’s a farmers market in the plaza. Local farmers and artisans come to sell all kinds of fruits and vegetables, honey, tamales, condiments, and several other goods.

Farmers market
Farmers market
Farmers market
Farmers market
Fresh squeezed orange juice at the Farmers Market
Fresh squeezed orange juice

 

Founder’s Park

There are a few smaller plazas in town. Founder’s Park (Parque Fundadores) has the firehouse, the Fireman’s Church, and a few sculptures in the middle. On another end is the Town Hall (Alcaldía).

Fireman’s Church and Founder's Park in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Fireman’s Church and Founder’s Park
Sculpture
Sculpture
Sculpture
Sculpture
Fireman's Church in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Fireman’s Church

 

Plazuela

The Plazuela has places to play basketball and football and a playground. It’s in front of one of the biggest schools in town. It’s also where you can get some of the best views of Belén.

Plazuela
Plazuela
Plazuela
Plazuela
View of Belén de Umbría from the Plazuela
View of Belén de Umbría from the Plazuela

 

My Thoughts on Belén de Umbría

Overall, Belén de Umbría is a great place to live and I feel lucky to have been placed here at the beginning of my life in Colombia. I’ve lived there since 2014 and have grown to know many residents and supported many businesses. It’s been interesting to see the town grow and develop over the years, and we plan on living there for quite a while longer.

Jeeps in the plaza in Belén de Umbría, Risaralda, Colombia
Jeeps in the plaza
Canal
Canal

 

Map of Belén de Umbría

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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