On a rainy day, I started my exploration of the Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo at its southern end. I took the Subte to Estación Constitución and walking about six blocks to Parque Paseo Lezama. Let me tell you – not the brightest idea. The streets and park were almost completely empty and I encountered a few shady characters along the way.
The park features a gazebo, sculpture garden, walkways, and recreational areas. There’s a lot of wear and tear but it’s easy to see its former glory.
On the grounds of the park is the Museo Histórico Nacional, housed in the former mansion of the Lezama family, built in 1857.
On the north end of the park is the Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa de la Santísima Trinidad (Holy Trinity Russian Orthodox Church). This church with blue onion domes was built in 1901 using materials imported from St. Petersburg.
From Parque Paseo Lezama, I walked up Calle Defensa into the heart of San Telmo. Once I crossed under the highway, I immediately felt like I was in a different and better area. Buildings were in better condition, there were more people on the streets, and more life in general.