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The Smyrna Agora is a small archaeological site containing the remains of ancient Smyrna (Σμύρνη or Σμύρνα in Greek). It sits east of the bazaar district of Kemeraltı in Izmir, Turkey.
Two Smyrnas
There were actually two ancient Smyrnas – old Smyrna and new Smyrna. Old Smyrna was settled in the 11th century BC and is located at Tepekule in the Bayraklı district of Izmir. Alexander the Great came through in the 4th century BC and conquered old Smyrna. Later, he was hunting up at the top of a nearby hill named Pagos (Πάγος) by the ancient Greeks and decided to take a nap under a plane tree. As he slept, he had a dream in which he founded a great city built on the hill.
Alexander’s dream was eventually carried out but only after his death. The settlement of old Smyrna was abandoned and the people relocated to the new site of the city where the Smyrna Agora is now located. It later became one of the seven churches in the Book of Revelation. The name of the city was changed to Izmir in 1930 by the Turkish government.
History of the Smyrna Agora
The agora was the center of life in ancient Smyrna. It was built in the 3rd century BC during the Hellenistic period but destroyed in 178 by an earthquake. It was rebuilt shortly after under Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. The Smyrna Agora was abandoned after the 7th century and later used as a cemetery. Excavations began in 1933.
Visiting
What’s left of ancient Smyrna is now buried underneath the modern city of Izmir, but the Smyrna Agora has been excavated and is open to the public. Admission is 130₺ (as of September 2023) and it’s open daily from 8:30am to 7pm. The entrance is on the north side of the site. The former entrance is on the south side.
Basement of the Basilica
The first section at the Smyrna Agora is the basilica. The path from the entrance takes visitors past the outer wall of the basilica, which occupies the former spot of the north portico of the agora.
The basilica was built during the Roman period on a rectangular plan about 161 x 29 meters and was used for judicial affairs. It had three floors and a basement, and was one of the largest basilicas built by the Romans. It’s possible to see some of the plumbing built into the walls.
The basement of the basilica has four galleries. The first three galleries probably functioned as a covered market for wholesalers and retailers as well as storage space. The fourth gallery was more of a prestigious hall, with marble floors, wall coverings, and frescoes. Unfortunately, none of the galleries were open to the public at the time of my visit.
Basement of the West Portico
The basement of the basilica connects to the basement of the west portico of the Smyrna Agora. This is one of the most fascinating sections of the site.
The basement of the west portico is a “cryptoportico” – underground arches that support above-ground structures. The structure is also very photogenic from both at and below ground level.
The basement of the west portico has three arched galleries. During the Hellenistic period, there were only two galleries, and what’s now the third gallery was probably an important city street.
Amazingly, water still flows through a channel in the first gallery. The channel was used to supply water to the Smyrna Agora and dates back to the Hellenistic period.
Also in the first gallery are a few honorary inscriptions written in Greek. One commemorates Julius Menacles Diophantus, the chief priest of the Roman imperial cult of Asia, for organizing five days of gladiator games including fights with sharp weapons. It dates back to the first half of the 3rd century. The other is the base of a statue of Claudius Aristophanes Aurelianus, neocorus of the cult of the Emperor, and is dated to the end of the 2nd or beginning of the 3rd century.
West Portico
The west portico of the Smyrna Agora has been partially reconstructed and runs for 83 meters. It was originally built as a single story building during the Hellenistic period. During the Roman period, it was reconstructed as a two-story building.
The west portico is lined with granite columns sitting on bases and topped with marble Corinthian capitals. The upper floor was probably made of wood. Three steps led from the courtyard of the agora to the portico.
Faustina Gate
At the south end of the west portico stood the Faustina Gate. It was a double-arched monumental gate that opened to the street leading to the port. The keystone of the arch contains a relief portrait of Faustina, the wife of Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Another arch contained a relief portrait of Marcus Aurelius. The city built the gate to honor Marcus Aurelius for his support in repairing Smyrna after the earthquake in 178.
Courtyard
The courtyard of the Smyrna Agora contains a “graveyard” for items excavated at the site but not yet reconstructed. There are pieces of columns, several items with inscriptions in Greek, and tombstones and sarcophagi from the Byzantine and Ottoman periods. I look forward to going back one day to see the progress made at the site.
Other Sections
On both of my visits to the site, the western section was off limits due to excavations. They include the Mosaic Hall and City Council (Bouleuterion) as well as a Roman bath, which can be seen from outside the fence. Again, I hope to see these areas opened on a future visit.
