Last updated on December 20, 2023.

Chora Church, also known as the Kariye Mosque (Kariye Camii), is one of the best preserved Byzantine sites in Istanbul. It’s included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the Historic Areas of Istanbul.

Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Chora Church

NOTE: Chora Church, once known as the Kariye Museum (Kariye Müzesi), was converted from a museum to a mosque in October 2020. I strongly condemn this decision and only hope all of the artistic and historic treasures inside will once again belong to all of humanity.

 

History

The church was originally built as part of a 4th century monastery outside of the city walls of Constantinople, but was included within the Theodosian city walls after they were built in 413 AD. The current church dates back to 1077 and was officially known as the Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora (Ἐκκλησία του Ἅγιου Σωτῆρος ἐν τῃ Χώρᾳ).

Chora Church
Chora Church

 

History

The church, which is located in the Edirnekapı neighborhood, contains some of the oldest and finest surviving Byzantine frescoes and mosaics. They were completed between 1315 and 1321.

Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Chora Church

When the church was converted to the Kariye Mosque (Kariye Camii) under Ottoman Grand Vizier Atik Ali Pasha (d. 1511) around 1503, during the reign of Bayezid II, the artwork was covered with a layer of plaster. Restoration began in 1948, when the mosque was decommissioned, and the museum opened in 1958. The building was converted to a mosque once again on October 30, 2020.

Buttress

 

Parecclision

The parecclision (side chapel) is one of the most spectacular parts of the building. It was used as a funeral chapel and has the church’s most brilliant frescoes.

Parecclesion at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Parecclesion
Parecclesion at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Parecclesion
Virgin and Child at Chora Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Virgin and Child
Tomb at Chora Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Tomb
Inscription in the Parecclesion at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription

The dome of the parecclision contains a fresco of the Virgin and Child surrounded by angels.

Virgin and Child in the Parecclesion at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Virgin and Child
Virgin and Child
Angels

At the rear are frescoes of the Second Coming of Christ and the Resurrection. Underneath the Resurrection are frescoes of the Church Fathers.

Second Coming of Christ in the Parecclesion at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Second Coming of Christ
Resurrection at Chora Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Resurrection
Church Fathers at Chora Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Church Fathers

 

Inner Narthex

The inner narthex is a corridor that connects to the parecclision and the naos (prayer hall). Here, there are mosaics of Christ, Saints Peter and Paul, and scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Inner narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Inner narthex
Christ and the Virgin Mary in the inner narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Christ and the Virgin Mary
St. Peter in the inner narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
St. Peter
Life of the Virgin in the inner narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Life of the Virgin
Christ healing the leper at Chora Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Christ healing the leper

One of my favorite mosaics depicts Byzantine politician Theodore Metochites (1270-1332) presenting a model of his church to an enthroned Christ.

Theodore Metochites presenting a model of his church to Christ in the inner narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Theodore Metochites presenting a model of his church to Christ

There are also two domes in the inner narthex. The larger one is of the genealogy of Christ with Christ Pantocrator in the center, while the smaller one shows the religious and noble ancestors of Christ and the Virgin and Child in the center.

Genealogy of Christ in the inner narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Genealogy of Christ
Christ Pantocrator in the inner narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Christ Pantocrator
Religious and noble ancestors of Christ in the inner narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Religious and noble ancestors of Christ

 

Nave

The large stone doors in the inner narthex open into the nave. This was the main part of the church and it sits under the largest dome. Click here for a virtual tour of the nave.

Looking towards the apse at Chora Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Looking towards the apse
Nave at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Nave
Nave at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Nave

Covered in marble, the nave isn’t as ornately decorated as the other parts of the church but features three mosaics along with mihrab from the time it functioned as a mosque. The mosaic above the entrance represents the Dormition of the Virgin.

Mihrab in the nave at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Mihrab
Dormition of the Virgin in the Nave at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Dormition of the Virgin

 

Outer Narthex

Back through the inner narthex is the outer narthex. This was the original entrance to the church. There are mosaics of Christ and saints.

Outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Outer narthex
Christ in the outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Christ
Outer narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Outer narthex

The outer narthex is also known for mosaics of several scenes from the Bible.

Outer narthex at Chora Church / Kariye Müzesi in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Outer narthex
Outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Outer narthex

Among the scenes depicted are the enrollment for taxation before Quirinius, Joseph’s dream and the journey to Bethlehem, the Wedding at Cana, and the Multiplication of the Loaves.

Enrollment for taxation before Quirinius in the outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Enrollment for taxation before Quirinius
Joseph's dream and the journey to Bethlehem in the outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Joseph’s dream and the journey to Bethlehem
Wedding at Cana in the outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Wedding at Cana
Multiplication of the loaves in the outer narthex at Chora Church in Edirnekapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Multiplication of the loaves

 

Asitane

Next door to the church is Asitane, a restaurant specializing in historic recipes from the Ottoman palace kitchens. I highly recommend combining your visit to Chora Church with lunch or dinner at Asitane.

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.