Last updated on March 23, 2024.

Topkapi Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) was the home of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years. It’s located in the historic city and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for Istanbul.

 

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Brief History of Topkapi Palace

Construction on the palace started in 1459 but it was expanded and renovated over the years, including after a 1509 earthquake and a 1665 fire. The palace was originally referred to as the Imperial New Palace (Saray-ı Cedîd-i Âmire) or New Palace (Yeni Saray) to distinguish it from the first palace at Beyazıt Square.

Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Topkapi Palace

The palace didn’t acquire the name Topkapi (Cannon Gate) until the reign of Mahmud I in the mid-17th century. At its height, it was home to over 4,000 people. Topkapi lost favor with the sultans over the years, and in 1856, the modern Dolmabahçe Palace became the main palace.

Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Topkapi Palace

 

Visiting Topkapi Palace

Foreigners can visit the palace for 1,500₺ or free with a Museum Pass Istanbul (as of March 2024). Tickets include admission to the Imperial Harem and Hagia Eirini. It’s open every day except Tuesdays.

There’s a lot to see at Topkapi Palace. Take your time and be patient with the crowds. At least a half day is recommended for a thorough visit to the palace. Audioguides are available to enhance your visit, but I never use them. The interpretive panels are very good.

 

Konyalı Restaurant

If you’re feeling hungry during a visit to Topkapi Palace, you’re in luck! You’ll find Konyalı in the 1st Courtyard next to Hagia Eirini. They’ve been serving visitors to the palace since 1969.

Konyalı at Topkapi Palace in Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey
Konyalı

Due to its location within a major tourist attraction, it’s a little pricier than many other restaurants in the city, but the food is very good. They offer a good variety of traditional Turkish dishes.

On my first visit I had the beğendili kebab, which is meat served over a bed of eggplant mash. On my second visitI had the Konyalı yoğurtlusu, which is a kebab with yogurt. It’s basically an İskender kebab. Both were very good.

Beğendili kebab at Konyalı in Eminönü, Istanbul, Turkey
Beğendili kebab
Konyalı yoğurtlusu at Konyalı
Konyalı yoğurtlusu

Konyalı used to be located in the 4th Courtyard down the stairs behind the Mecidiye Pavilion but it moved in 2021. I preferred the older location because of the beautiful view of the sea, but it’s for the better as far as conservation of the palace.

Former location of Konyalı
Former location of Konyalı
Former location of Konyalı at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Former location of Konyalı
View from the former location of Konyalı
View from the former location of Konyalı

 

Imperial Gate

The Imperial Gate (Bâb-ı Hümâyûn) is the main entrance to Topkapi Palace and the first of three ceremonial gates. It was built in 1478 by Mehmed the Conqueror (Mehmed II). The marble covering dates back to a 19th century reconstruction under Sultan Abdülaziz I.

Imperial Gate of Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Gate

The Imperial Gate originally had a wooden pavilion at the top used by Mehmed II and sometimes the ladies of the Imperial Harem to observe special occasions. It was also used as a depository for property of those who died in the palace without heirs and a receiving department for the treasury. Another name for the gate was the Sultan’s Gate (Saltanat Kapısı). The inscription above the gate reads:

“By the Grace of God, and by His approval, the foundations of this auspicious castle were laid, and its parts were solidly joined together to strengthen peace and tranquility. This blessed castle, with the aim of ensuring safety of Allah’s support and the consent of the son of Sultan Mehmed, son of Sultan Murad, sultan of the land, and ruler of the seas, the shadow of Allah on the people and demons, God’s deputy in the east and west, the hero of water and soil, the conqueror of Constantinople and the father of its conquest, Sultan Mehmed Khan – May Allah make eternal his empire, and exalt his residence above the most lucid stars of the firmament.”

Looking up at the Imperial Gate
Looking up at the Imperial Gate

Today, after passing through the Imperial Gate, visitors to Topkapi Palace go through a security checkpoint. Once that’s complete, they’re free to explore the 1st Courtyard and continue to the rest of the palace.

Imperial Gate from the inside at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Gate from the inside

 

1st Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

The 1st Courtyard (I. Avlu) of Topkapi Palace was the only section of the palace open to the public during Ottoman times. Many of the buildings were used for management of the palace, including a bakery and a small hospital, but they no longer exist. The 1st Courtyard is the largest courtyard at the palace.

1st Courtyard at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
1st Courtyard

 

Hagia Eirini

Two important buildings remain in the courtyard. The first is Hagia Eirini (Ἁγία Εἰρήνη / Aya İrini), which was the very first church built in Constantinople. Closed to the public for many years except for concerts or with special permission, it opened as a museum in January 2014. It’s covered in another post.

Hagia Eirini in Istanbul, Turkey
Hagia Eirini

 

Imperial Mint

The other is the Imperial Mint (Darphane-i Âmire), built in 1727. The mint was originally located at Simkeşhane on Beyazıt Square before it was transferred to Topkapi Palace.

Imperial Mint at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Mint
Imperial Mint at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Mint
Door of the Imperial Mint
Door of the Imperial Mint
Imperial Mint
Imperial Mint

 

Topkapi Palace Ticket Booth

Tickets to Topkapi Palace are purchased in the 1st Courtyard. Visitors need a ticket to pass through to the 2nd Courtyard. The ticket booth also contains a gift shop, café, and restrooms.

 

Gate of Salutations

Passing through the ceremonial Gate of Salutations (Bâb-üs Selâm) leads from the 1st Courtyard (I. Avlu) to the 2nd Courtyard of the palace. It isn’t clear when the gate was built, but an inscription above the door is dated 1542. It’s possible that it was constructed by Mehmed the Conqueror (Mehmed II) in 1468, with a design that was probably influenced by Byzantine architecture.

Gate of Salutations at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate of Salutations

Since the Gate of Salutations was the entrance to the heart of the palace, only the Sultan was allowed to enter on horseback while all others had to dismount. This was a tradition taken from the Great Palace of the Byzantine Emperors. Government officials and foreign dignitaries were the only ones allowed to enter the palace through this gate.

Inscription on the Gate of Salutations at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription on the Gate of Salutations
Ceiling of the Gate of Salutations
Ceiling

Passing through the gate requires a ticket, which can be purchased in the 1st Courtyard. Once through, it’s possible to see some scale models of the palace.

A model of Topkapi Palace
A model of Topkapi Palace
A model of Topkapi Palace
A model of Topkapi Palace

 

2nd Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

The 2nd Courtyard (II. Avlu) of Topkapi Palace is where you can find the entrance to the Harem and other several important buildings.

 

Entrance to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace

After passing through the Gate of Salutations, the entrance to the Imperial Harem is a short walk to the left. It costs extra to see the Harem but no visit to Topkapi Palace is complete without seeing it. The Imperial Harem is covered in a separate post.

Entrance to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Entrance to the Imperial Harem

 

Imperial Council

The Imperial Council (Dîvân-ı Hümâyûn) is the most important building in the 2nd Courtyard at Topkapi Palace. It’s where the Imperial Council and the viziers of the Ottoman Empire met to discuss state affairs.

Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Council

The Imperial Council was the cabinet of the Ottoman Empire that met to discuss state affairs. It was chaired by the Grand Vizier (Sadrazam) and made up of other viziers, judges, treasurers, military officials, and sometimes religious officials. The council initially met daily but it was down to four days a week by the 16th century. If the Sultan was traveling, the Imperial Council would travel with him.

In the 19th century, the Imperial Council was dissolved and replaced by a Western-style cabinet government. The last meeting of the Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace took place on August 30, 1876, to discuss the future of Sultan Murad V. He was deposed the next day after only a 93-day reign because of supposed mental instability.

The first Imperial Council building was a simple wooden structure constructed under Mehmed the Conqueror. The present building was built between 1527 and 1529 under Süleyman the Magnificent. The architect was Alseddin. Renovations took place under Selim III in 1792 and again under Mahmud II in 1819. The Rococo decorations inside date from these renovations.

 

Tower of Justice

The building is crowned by the Tower of Justice (Adalet Kulesi), which is the tallest structure at Topkapi Palace. The tower was meant to symbolize the Sultan’s ever-vigilant presence against injustice in his empire. Ottoman citizens could see the tower from afar, reminding them that the Sultan sees all.

Tower of Justice at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tower of Justice

The Tower of Justice was originally built by Mehmed the Conqueror and then rebuilt and enlarged by Süleyman the Magnificent between 1527 and 1529. Sultan Mahmud II rebuilt the top of the tower in the Palladian style in 1825.

 

Entrances to the Imperial Council

The entrances to the building sit under a porch consisting of marble and porphyry pillars. Rococo-style gilded grills allow in natural light. There are three chambers inside.

Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Council

 

Council Hall

The Imperial Council would meet in the Council Hall, also known as the Kubbealtı (Under the Dome). It’s decorated with Kütahya tiles.

Council Hall at the Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Council Hall
Decorations in the Council Hall at the Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Decorations in the Council Hall

The Sultan and Queen Mother (Valide Sultan) would often attend Imperial Council meetings discretely from behind a window with a golden grill. When the Sultan would draw the curtain on the window or rap on the grill, it signaled that the meeting was over. The viziers would then have to meet with him one by one in private at the Audience Chamber in the 3rd Courtyard. The golden window is accessible from the Tower of Justice.

Council Hall with the golden window above at the Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Council Hall with the golden window above
Golden window at the Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Golden window

 

Second Chamber

The second chamber was occupied by the secretarial staff of the viziers. They would record what was discussed during the meetings. The wall bears the tughra (monogram) of Sultan Mustafa III.

Second chamber at the Imperial Council at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Second chamber
Tughra of Sultan Mustafa III in the Second Chamber at the Imperial Council
Tughra of Sultan Mustafa III
Dome of the second chamber in the Imperial Council
Dome of the second chamber

 

Inkwell Chamber

The third chamber to the right is the Inkwell Chamber (Divit Odası). Inside, scribes would write letters carrying state secrets as well as official documents. Today, it serves as a small museum of clocks.

Inkwell Chamber at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Inkwell Chamber
Inkwell Chamber
Inkwell Chamber

 

Clock Collection

The clock collection at Topkapi Palace is worth popping in to see. It contains 380 rare mechanical clocks that were produced during a 400 year period. The exhibition opened in 2012 and is divided into three sections: Ottoman clocks, European clocks, and pocket watches.

Clock collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Clock collection
Astronomical bracket clock; France; 19th century at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Astronomical bracket clock; France; 19th century
Bracket clock; England; 19th century
Bracket clock; England; 19th century

 

Outer Treasury

The building next to the Imperial Council is the Outer Treasury (Dış Hazine), built between 1526 and 1528 by Süleyman the Magnificent. The salaries of the Janissaries and civil servants were distributed from there, and taxes collected from Ottoman provinces were kept there. It also held gifts to be bestowed upon foreign ambassadors. The building functioned as a treasury until the mid-19th century and now houses an impressive collection of weapons and armor.

Outer Treasury at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Outer Treasury

 

Weapons Collection at Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace features one of the finest collection of weapons in the world. It spans 1,300 years from the 7th to 20th centuries. The collection is made up of over 33,000 pieces, including swords, armor, shields, helmets, axes, pistols, daggers, and more. There are about 400 weapons on display at any one time.

Weapons collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Weapons collection

 

Ottoman Weapons

The first section of the exhibit displays Ottoman weapons. It includes items related to archery, such as bows and arrows; swords and sheaths; helmets and chainmail; and pistols.

Archery items in the weapons collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Archery items
Swords in the weapons collection
Swords
Helmets and chainmail in the weapons collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Helmets and chainmail
Pistols in the weapons collection
Pistols

 

Gifts and Prizes

Turning the corner is the Gifts and Prizes section. These weapons were gathered from the battlefield or given as gifts to the Sultan. The majority belonged to the Umayyads, Abbasids, Mamluks, and Persians, while a smaller percentage of European and Asian weapons are also included.

Gifts and Prizes in the weapons collection
Gifts and Prizes
Helmet; Safavid; 1585
Helmet; Safavid; 1585
14th century Hungarian swords in the weapons collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
14th century Hungarian swords

 

Weapons of the Sultans

Finally, several items belonging to the Sultans round out the weapons collection at Topkapi Palace. Of particular interest is the sword belonging to Mehmed the Conqueror, which features an inscription from the Quran. Swords and armor belonging to other Sultans follow.

Sword belonging to Sultan Mehmed II; Ottoman; 2nd half of the 15th century in the weapons collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Sword belonging to Sultan Mehmed II; Ottoman; 2nd half of the 15th century
Swords belonging to Süleyman the Magnificent; Ottoman; 16th century
Swords belonging to Süleyman the Magnificent; Ottoman; 16th century
Ceremonial armor of Sultan Mustafa III; Ottoman; 18th century in the weapons collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Ceremonial armor of Sultan Mustafa III; Ottoman; 18th century
Sword of Sultan Mehmed V, Ottoman, 1st half of the 20th century (left); sword of Sultan Abdülhamid II, Ottoman, 1876-77 (center); sword of Sultan Abdülaziz, Ottoman, 2nd half of the 19th century (right)
Sword of Sultan Mehmed V, Ottoman, 1st half of the 20th century (left); sword of Sultan Abdülhamid II, Ottoman, 1876-77 (center); sword of Sultan Abdülaziz, Ottoman, 2nd half of the 19th century (right)

 

Topkapi Palace Kitchens

Across the courtyard from the Imperial Council are the Palace Kitchens (Matbah-ı Âmire). The largest kitchens in the Ottoman Empire, they were originally built in the 15th century and enlarged under Süleyman the Magnificent. They were modeled after the palace kitchens at Edirne Palace in Edirne.

Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Palace Kitchens
Portico in front of the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Portico in front of the Palace Kitchens

The kitchens were damaged by fire in 1574 and promptly restored by legendary Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). He redesigned them in 2 rows with 20 chimneys. There were four gates to the kitchen complex of which two are accessible today.

Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Palace Kitchens
Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Palace Kitchens

The Palace Kitchens contained 10 domed buildings divided by an internal street. They fed up to 4,000 people a day with a capacity to feed up to 6,000. Kitchen staff numbered over 800 people, and the complex included dormitories, a hamam, and a mosque. Some of the buildings have not survived to this day.

Dome at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome

Today, the Palace Kitchens display a collection of kitchen utensils, dishes, trays, and other items. It’s spread out over four buildings on the east side of the street and broken down into two sections.

 

Kitchenware Exhibition

The first section focuses on wares from the 15th through 18th centuries and takes up three buildings. The rest of the collection focuses on the 19th century and occupies one building.

Kitchenware at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Kitchenware
Knives and clevers
Serving trays
Dish sets
Dish sets
Cutlery and serving vessels

 

Confectionary Kitchen

The Confectionary Kitchen (Helvahane) sits on the east side of the street on the north side of the complex. It was built by Mimar Sinan during the kitchen expansion under Süleyman the Magnificent and consists of two sections topped by four domes.

Confectionary Kitchen at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Confectionary Kitchen
Confectionary Kitchen at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Confectionary Kitchen
Porcelain vessels

The Confectionary Kitchen was supervised by the Chief Royal Confectioner (Helvacıbaşı). His staff was responsible for preparing desserts such as baklava, lokma, fruit preserves, sherbet, and other sweets. They also made medicines under the supervision of the Chief Physician, candles, and soaps. There were typically 6 chefs and over 100 apprentices.

Confectioner
Marble slab
Vats

 

Sherbet Room

The Sherbet Room (Şerbethane) is connected to the Confectionary Kitchen and sits at the northern end of the complex.

Sherbet Room at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Sherbet Room
19th century sherbet urns, jugs, and cups
Porcelain bowl

Today, the Sherbet Room displays an impressive collection of porcelain and glass serving jugs, perfume bottles, and cups.

Porcelain, silver, and glass jugs in the Sherbet Room at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Porcelain, silver, and glass jugs
Perfume bottles

 

Hamam

The hamam at the Palace Kitchens were built in 1722 by Grand Vizier Nevşehirli Damat Ibrahim Pasha (c. 1662-1730) during the reign of Ahmed III. It consists of two square rooms topped by a dome set with small skylights. There’s a dressing room as well as a tepidarium and private washing area, and it had an underfloor heating system.

Hamam

 

Pantry

The hamam is attached to the Pantry (Kiler), which consists of two levels. The first level displays scales and meathooks, while the second level has a priceless collection of porcelain and the odd trunk.

Scales and meathooks
Porcelain collection
Urns and a trunk

The Chinese porcelain collection at Topkapi Palace is among the finest in the world. It contains over 10,000 pieces and ranges from the late Song Dynasty (960-1279) and the Yuan Dynasty (1280–1368), through the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) to the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). 17th to 19th century Japanese pieces as well as over 5,000 European pieces round out the collection.

Porcelain collection
Chinese porcelain in the Pantry at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Chinese porcelain
Chinese porcelain

 

Mosque of the Cooks

At the southern end of the Palace Kitchens is the Mosque of the Cooks (Aşçılar Mescidi). It’s a two-story structure made of wood. The mosque was built in 1626 and the second story was added in the 18th century.

Mosque of the Cooks at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Mosque of the Cooks

The Palace Kitchens had two other mosques, one for the pantrymen and another for the confectioners. The confectioner’s mosque is used as a small exhibition gallery connected to the Sherbet Room while the pantrymen’s mosque no longer exists.

Mosque of the Cooks

 

Tinning Shop

Finally, across from the Mosque of the Cooks is the Tinning Shop (Kalayhane). In the early years of Topkapi Palace, copper vessels and utensils were tinned outside the palace. From the second quarter of the 16th century onwards, however, most of the tinning was done at the Palace Kitchens.

Tinning Shop at the Palace Kitchens at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tinning Shop

There were roughly 8 to 15 tinners working at the palace under the supervision of the Chief Tinner. The actual Tinning Shop no longer exists, but the room on display was known to be used for tinning. A register entry dated 1573 mentions this small tinning shop attached to the hamam furnace.

Tinning Shop

 

Byzantine Cistern

Back in the middle of the 2nd Courtyard, you might notice a few interesting things. One is a Byzantine cistern dated to the 5th century.

Byzantine cistern
Byzantine cistern

 

Fortress of Sokhumi Monument

Another is a monument from the Fortress of Sokhumi in present-day Georgia (actually in the breakaway republic of Abkhazia). It originally belonged to a fortress built under Ahmed III and was brought to Topkapi Palace by Abdülhamid II in 1877 during the Ottoman-Russian War.

Fortress of Sokhumi monument at Topkapı Sarayı in Istanbul, Turkey
Fortress of Sokhumi monument

 

Gate of Felicity

The 3rd Courtyard of Topkapi Palace is accessible either from the tourist exit of the Imperial Harem or by passing through the Gate of Felicity (Bab-üs Saâdet) from the 2nd Courtyard. The gate was originally built by Mehmed the Conqueror, but was renovated by Sultans Abdülhamid I, Selim III, and Mahmud II. Nobody was allowed through without special permission from the Sultan.

Gate of Felicity at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate of Felicity

The area in front of the gate was used for special occasions such as the accession of a new sultan, religious holidays, and the presentation of the Holy Banner to the commander-in-chief of the army before military campaigns.

Gate of Felicity at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate of Felicity
Fresco on the Gate of Felicity at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fresco on the Gate of Felicity
Gate of Felicity at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate of Felicity

The Gate of Felicity was under the control of the Chief Eunuch of the Sultan’s Harem (Bâbü’s-saâde Ağası) and his staff. The eunuchs kept the gate closed at all times. Trying to enter without proper authorization was seen as a direct challenge to the Sultan’s power and was treated as the most serious crime. The quarters of the Chief Eunuch and the White Eunuchs (Akağalar) were on either side of the gate.

Mannequins of the Chief Eunuch and a White Eunuch at the Gate of Felicity
Mannequins of the Chief Eunuch and a White Eunuch

 

3rd Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

The 3rd Courtyard (III. Avlu) of Topkapi Palace, also known as the Innermost (Enderûn), was where the Sultan spent most of his time outside the Harem. It was the selâmlık, which is an area that was reserved for men only.

3rd Courtyard at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
3rd Courtyard
3rd Courtyard at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
3rd Courtyard

 

Dormitory of the Small and Large Chambers

The Dormitory of the Large Chamber (Büyük Oda Koğuşu) and Dormitory of the Small Chamber (Küçük Oda Koğuşu) sit on either side of the gate from the inside of the 3rd Courtyard. They were used as classrooms to educate the brightest and most talented boys of the devşirme system. The devşirme was a system in which Christian boys were taken from their parents as a tax. The boys were forced to convert to Islam, learn Turkish, and serve the empire as loyal subjects.

 

Audience Chamber

Right behind the Gate of Felicity is the Audience Chamber (Arz Odası). In this building, the Sultan would receive foreign ambassadors as well as have private meetings with members of the Imperial Council and other state officials. Often, a Grand Vizier or state official would enter the Audience Chamber without knowing if he would come out alive.

Audience Chamber at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Audience Chamber

The Audience Chamber dates back to the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror. When it was completely renovated by Süleyman the Magnificent, he placed a small fountain by the entrance that was used not only for drinking water but also to prevent eavesdroppers from listening in on important conversations.

Audience Chamber at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Audience Chamber
Fountain of Süleyman I at the Audience Chamber
Fountain of Süleyman I

Inside is the throne that the Sultan would sit on while meeting with his guests. The Audience Chamber was once filled with tiles, fine carpets, pillows, and other ornate decorations, but they were destroyed by a terrible fire in 1856. Only the throne was saved almost completely intact.

Audience Chamber at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Audience Chamber

 

Enderûn Library

Behind the Audience Chamber and directly in the center of the courtyard is the Enderûn Library (Enderûn Kütüphanesi). It was built in 1719 by Sultan Ahmed III as the first library inside the palace. It replaced an older building and contained the personal libraries of Ahmed III, Abdülhamid I, and Selim III.

Enderûn Library at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Enderûn Library
Fountain outside the Enderûn Library
Fountain outside the Enderûn Library
Enderûn Library
Enderûn Library
Reading area at the Enderûn Library at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Reading area

The Enderûn Library was richly decorated with 16th and 17th century Iznik tiles and mother of pearl. Books were kept in cabinets built into the walls. The Sultan had his own personal reading niche.

Sultan's reading niche at the Enderûn Library at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Sultan’s reading niche
Dome of the Enderûn Library
Dome
Lantern at the Enderûn Library at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Lantern

 

Dormitory of the Expeditionary Force

The Dormitory of the Expeditionary Force (Seferli Koğuşu) was built by Murad IV in 1635 and rebuilt by Ahmed III in 1719. It now houses the Imperial Wardrobe Collection (Padişah Elbiseleri Koleksiyonu), which consists mostly of caftans and uniforms worn by the sultans. The exhibition reopened in 2023 after a very long restoration. I visited and will update with photos and information when I have a chance.

Caftan worn by Mehmet the Conqueror at the Imperial Wardrobe Collection at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Caftan worn by Mehmed the Conqueror
Caftan of one of the sultans at the Imperial Wardrobe Collection
Caftan of one of the sultans

 

Conqueror’s Pavilion

Next door is the Conqueror’s Pavilion (Fatih Köşkü), which was built in 1462 by Mehmed the Conqueror and is one of the oldest surviving buildings in the palace. It was originally intended to be a private retreat for the Sultan but was later turned into the Imperial Treasury.

Conqueror's Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Conqueror’s Pavilion

 

Imperial Treasury at Topkapi Palace

The Imperial Treasury displays several priceless items owned by the sultans of the Ottoman Empire. I was able to visit in June 2023 after the collection was closed to the public for several years due to restoration. I’ll update with photos and info when I have a chance.

 

Spoonmaker’s Diamond

The rare Spoonmaker’s Diamond (Kaşıkçı Elması) is an 86 carat diamond and is considered the fourth largest diamond in the world. The diamond is the single most valuable item in the entire Topkapi Palace collection. Its origins or how it came into Ottoman possession are both unknown, but it was first mentioned in the 17th century as a belonging of Sultan Mehmed IV.

Spoonmaker's Diamond in the Imperial Treasury at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Spoonmaker’s Diamond

 

Topkapi Dagger

The famed Topkapi Dagger was made in the mid-18th century. The handle is decorated with three large Colombian emeralds and it also contains several small diamonds. The dagger was meant as a gift from Sultan Mahmud I to Nadir Shah Afshar of Iran (1688-1747), but the Shah was assassinated before it could be delivered. The dagger was also the theme of the 1964 film Topkapi.

Topkapi Dagger in the Imperial Treasury at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Topkapi Dagger

 

Dormitories of the Pantry Ward and Treasury Ward

Continuing around the courtyard is the Dormitory of the Pantry Ward Chamberlain (Kilerli Koğuşu). The Pantry Ward was responsible for preparing the Sultan’s meals. Next door is the Dormitory of the Treasury Ward (Hazine Koğuşu). The Dormitory of the Pantry Ward contains a collection of calligraphy. I’ll update with photos and information when I have a chance.

 

Chamber of the Sacred Relics

The Privy Chamber (Has Oda) houses the Chamber of the Sacred Relics (Kutsal Emanetler Dairesi). Inside are the most important relics of the Islamic world, including the cloak and banner of the Prophet Muhammad, his swords, his seal, a tooth, and a hair from his beard. In the room holding Muhammad’s relics, a mufti recites the Koran 24 hours a day.

Chamber of the Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Chamber of the Sacred Relics

Other items include Joseph’s turban, the staff of Moses, the sword of David, and the keys to the Kaaba. Visitors to this building are expected to dress respectfully as if visiting a mosque, but this policy is not strictly enforced by security.

Chamber of the Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Chamber of the Sacred Relics
Chamber of the Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Chamber of the Sacred Relics

 

Dormitory of the Privy Chamber

The Dormitory of the Privy Chamber (Has Oda Koğuşu) was reserved for the best and brightest students from the palace school. They would spend nearly all their time in the presence or proximity of the Sultan and were responsible for the maintenance and preservation of the Sacred Relics.

 

Mosque of the Ağas

The Mosque of the Ağas of the Inner Palace (Enderûn Ağalar Câmii) was the largest mosque in the Topkapi Palace complex. It was built in the 15th century under Mehmed the Conqueror and was used by the palace squires and pages as well as the sultans and their mothers. It now holds over 13,500 books from the Enderûn Library and all other libraries in the palace. The mosque is the first building visitors see after exiting the Harem.

Mosque of the Ağas of the Inner Palace at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Mosque of the Ağas of the Inner Palace

 

4th Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

The 4th Courtyard (IV. Avlu) of Topkapi Palace was the most private area of the sultans. It was also known as the Imperial Terrace (Sofa-ı Hümâyûn) and consists of several pavilions along with a tulip garden.

Tulip Garden at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tulip Garden

 

Marble Terrace

The majority of visitors head directly to the Marble Terrace (Mermer Sofa). Some of most of the impressive pavilions at Topkapi Palace are located there.

Marble Terrace at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Marble Terrace

The entrance to the Marble Terrace borders the outer wall of the Chamber of the Sacred Relics. It’s partially colonnaded and contains a pool in the center. The colonnade was built in the mid-17th century during the reign of Ibrahim.

Wall of the Chamber of Sacred Relics on the Marble Terrace at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Wall of the Chamber of Sacred Relics
Under the colonnade of the Marble Terrace
Under the colonnade
Marble Terrace at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Marble Terrace
Pool at the Marble Terrace
Pool

 

Yerevan Pavilion

The first pavilion encountered when walking up the steps of the Marble Terrace is the Yerevan Pavilion (Revan Köşkü). It was built between 1635 and 1636 by Sultan Murad IV to commemorate the capture of Yerevan. The architect may have been Hasan Ağa or Kasım Ağa.

Yerevan Pavilion at the Marble Terrace at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Yerevan Pavilion

The Yerevan Pavilion was originally used as a religious retreat and as a place to wrap and preserve the Sultan’s turbans. The Sacred Relics were also taken there to display to guests on the 12th day of Ramadan.

Yerevan Pavilion at the Marble Terrace at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Yerevan Pavilion

The outer wall of the Yerevan Pavilion facing the colonnade is set with marble. The interior walls are decorated with 17th century Iznik tiles copying a 16th century pattern used on tiles on the Circumcision Room (see below). The pavilion contains most of its original decorations.

Fireplace in the Yerevan Pavilion
Fireplace

During some of my visits to Topkapi Palace, the throne of Ahmed I has been on display inside. It was built in the early 17th century and contains inlaid jewels and mother-of-pearl.

Throne of Sultan Ahmed I
Throne of Sultan Ahmed I

 

Circumcision Room

At the other end of the colonnade is the Circumcision Room (Sünnet Odası). It dates to the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent but its current appearance is from renovations made by Sultan Ibrahim in 1640.

Circumcision Room at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Circumcision Room
Entrance to the Circumcision Room
Entrance
Inscription above the entrance to the Circumcision Room
Inscription above the entrance

The Circumcision Room was originally the Summer Room (Yazlık Oda) and may have been used as a summer bedroom. The name changed after the circumcisions of Sultan Ahmed III’s sons were performed there. Inside are stained glass windows and a fireplace with a gilded hood.

Circumcision Room at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Circumcision Room

The Circumcision Room is richly decorated with stunning tile work inside and out. The most important tiles are those on the exterior, which are dated 1529 and are recycled from other palace buildings. They once adorned the Imperial Council and Outer Treasury in the 2nd Courtyard and the Audience Chamber in the 3rd Courtyard. The tiles served as prototypes for the tiles in the Yerevan Pavilion and Baghdad Pavilion.

Exterior tiles of the Circumcision Room at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Exterior tiles
Tiles above a window in the Circumcision Room
Tiles above a window
Ceiling of the Circumcision Room at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Ceiling

 

Iftar Kiosk

A popular photo op for tourists is the Iftar Kiosk (İftariye Köşkü). It’s believed the kiosk was used as a place for the Sultan to break his fast at sunset during Ramadan. The current look with the gilded roof comes from the reign of Ibrahim.

Iftar Kiosk at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Iftar Kiosk

From the kiosk, the sultans were able to watch sporting events in the garden below and look across the Golden Horn. It’s also thought that the Sultan would shower officials with gold coins from there.

Garden under the Marble Terrace
Garden
View of Galata
View of Galata
Galata Tower
Galata Tower
View of Beyoğlu
View of Beyoğlu

 

Baghdad Pavilion

The Baghdad Pavilion (Bağdad Köşkü) sits at the end of the Marble Terrace. It was built in 1639 by Sultan Murad IV to commemorate the reconquest of Baghdad, which was captured by the Safavids in 1624. The architect was Kasım Ağa. In 1733, Sultan Mahmud I established a library in the pavilion containing 360 rare books and manuscripts.

Baghdad Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Baghdad Pavilion
Baghdad Pavilion from outside the Marble Terrace
Baghdad Pavilion from outside the Marble Terrace

The Baghdad Pavilion has eight sides with 3 doors and 22 windows. Most of the decorations are original. The interior contains 17th century tiles copied from the Circumcision Room. The inscriptions were written by Ottoman calligrapher Tophaneli Mahmud Çelebi.

Baghdad Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Baghdad Pavilion
Baghdad Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Baghdad Pavilion

The shelves and cupboards contain 16th century green, yellow, and blue tiles, while the cabinets are inlaid with mother-of-pearl and tortoise shell. There’s also a fireplace with a gilded hood.

Baghdad Pavilion
Baghdad Pavilion
Fireplace in the Baghdad Pavilion
Fireplace
Dome of Baghdad Pavilion
Dome

On display in the Baghdad Pavilion during some of my visits to Topkapi Palace was the throne of Mahmud II. It was made in the early 19th century by Charles-Joseph Lemarchand (1759-1826), the furniture maker for the King of France.

Throne of Sultan Mahmud II
Throne of Sultan Mahmud II

 

Terrace Pavilion

Near the Tulip Garden is the Terrace Pavilion (Sofa Köşku), which was originally built sometime between 1676 and 1683 by Sultan Mehmed IV. It was restored by Ahmed III in 1704 and rebuilt in the Rococo style by Mahmud I in 1752. It’s the only wooden building in the innermost part of the palace.

Terrace Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Terrace Pavilion
Terrace Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Terrace Pavilion

The building consists of two rooms, the Divan Lounge (Divanhane), which was used as a prayer room, and the Sherbet Room (Şerbet Odası). Also known as the Top of the Stairs Pavilion (Merdiven Başı Kasrı), the Terrace Pavilion was used to hold meetings as well as watch sporting events in the field below. It was also used for a short period to house guests.

Terrace Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Terrace Pavilion
Terrace Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Terrace Pavilion
Woodwork on the Terrace Pavilion
Woodwork

 

Stone Throne

The small field below the Terrace Pavilion held the aforementioned sporting events at Topkapi Palace. At the southern end of the field is the Stone Throne (Taş Taht), which was made for Sultan Murad IV to watch these events. The inscription on the throne states that in 1636, Murad IV threw an oak cudgel 120 meters.

Field in the 4th Courtyard
Field in the 4th Courtyard
Stone Throne at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Stone Throne

 

Chamber of the Chief Physician

The Stone Throne rests against the Chamber of the Chief Physician (Hekimbaşı Odası), which was also known as the Tower of the Head Tutor (Baş Lala Kulesi). This building was originally built as a watchtower under Sultan Mehmed II in the 15th century. It’s the oldest building in the 4th Courtyard and the walls are two meters thick.

Chamber of the Chief Physician
Chamber of the Chief Physician

The Sultan and all residents of the Imperial Harem were treated by doctors under the Chief Physician. His private chamber was at the top while the lower level served as the court pharmacy. Under the supervision of the Chief Physician, medicines were prepared, mixed, and sealed in glass bottles or jars before being distributed to patients. The position of Chief Physician was traditionally held by a Jew until the 17th century, and he often accompanied the Sultan on excursions outside the palace. The Head Tutor also lived in the building.

Chamber of the Chief Physician at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Chamber of the Chief Physician

 

Mecidiye Pavilion

The newest building on the palace grounds is the Mecidiye Pavilion (Mecidiye Köşkü). It was built between 1858 and 1859 by Sultan Abdülmecid I and was designed by Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899).

Mecidiye Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Mecidiye Pavilion

After moving to the newer Dolmabahçe and Yıldız Palaces, the sultans would stay at the Mecidiye Pavilion on retreats and official visits to Topkapi Palace. It was favored for its spectacular Bosporus views and was decorated with French furniture.

Mecidiye Pavilion at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Mecidiye Pavilion

For many years after the palace opened as a museum, the Mecidiye Pavilion served as a restaurant. It has since been restored to its original state and is now open to the public. The Wardrobe Chamber (Esvap Odası), also built in 1858, is nearby.

Side of the Mecidiye Pavilion
Side of the Mecidiye Pavilion

 

Terrace Mosque

Finally, a few steps from the Mecidiye Pavilion is the Terrace Mosque (Sofa Camii). It was constructed in the early 19th century under Mahmud II for officials of the Treasury Ward to perform their prayers. It stood on the space once occupied by Kiosk of the Swordbearer (Silahdar Köşkü), which was demolished in 1809. The mosque was restored by Abdülmecid I in 1858.

Terrace Mosque at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Terrace Mosque

 

Map of Topkapi Palace

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Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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