The modern city center of Eskişehir, known to locals as Çarşı, is mostly centered around the Porsuk River. The river winds through the city and has pedestrian bridges crossing it every so often. On the banks, there’s a wide riverwalk with trees and benches. There are also several restaurants and shops. It’s even possible to take a boat ride down the river!
The rest of the modern city is just that – a modern city. Around Köprübaşı Caddesi and Hamamyolu Caddesi is where the Greeks and Armenians traditionally lived. The entire area was burned to the ground by the Greek army in 1922 as they retreated. Nothing of historical significance remains. The city was known as Dorylaion (Δορύλαιον) to the Greeks.
Atatürk Bulvarı runs along the southern end of the park and separates the modern city center from Eskişehir’s old town of Odunpazarı. Across the street from the park is the Anadolu Üniversitesi Cumhuriyet Tarihi Müzesi, which tells the history of the Turkish Republic. It’s housed in one of the oldest Republican era buildings in the city.
On Atatürk Bulvarı you’ll also find the Eskişehir Arkeoloji Müzesi. This archaeology museum has finds from nearby areas dating from the Paleolithic era to the Hittites to the Ottomans, including Hellenistic finds from the ancient city of Dorylaeum (Δορύλαιον). It’s open from 8AM to 5PM and admission is 5TL (as of November 2016).
The largest and most important mosque in town is the Reşadiye Camii. It sits at a junction of two main arteries in the city and on the tram line. The name refers to an older Ottoman mosque built in 1918 by Sultan Mehmet V Reşat, but the current structure dates to 1979.