Last updated on December 18, 2023.

Want to get off the beaten path in Istanbul? A good option is Kumkapı. This neighborhood on the shores of the Marmara Sea isn’t usually on the tourist radar. There are no big name attractions, but it’s nice to explore for a couple hours.

Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Kumkapı

Kumkapı is a neighborhood just steps away from the historic old city at Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, but it’s a world apart. The run-down Ottoman buildings and clotheslines strewn from window to window high above the street will give you a much different feeling than the touristy Sultanahmet. It will give you a glimpse into everyday life in Istanbul.

Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Kumkapı

Kumkapı was traditionally home to a large Armenian community and a sizable population of Greeks. The Greeks still call the area Kontoskálion (Κοντοσκάλιον), and there are Armenian and Greek churches scattered throughout the neighborhood.

 

Armenian Patriarchate

The most important site in the neighborhood is the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople (Պատրիարքութիւն Հայոց Կոստանդնուպոլսոյ / Badriark’ut’iun Hayots’ Gosdantnubolsoy / İstanbul Ermeni Patrikhanesi), founded in 1461. It’s the worldwide seat of the Armenian Apostolic Church, a branch of Oriental Orthodoxy.

Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople

Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Patriarchal Church (Aziz Meryem Ana Patriklik Kilisesi) sits across the street behind high stone walls. The bell tower of the church is visible from the street. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit.

Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Patriarchal Cathedral in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Patriarchal Cathedral

 

Bezciyan Armenian School

The large building next door to the Patriarchal Church is the Bezciyan Armenian School (Bezciyan Ermeni İlköğretim Okulu). It was founded in 1830 by Harutyun Bezciyan (1771-1834), an Ottoman Armenian merchant. He was the personal financial and economic adviser to Sultan Mahmud II and the manager of the Ottoman mint. The school operates as a primary school with eight grades.

Bezciyan Armenian School in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Bezciyan Armenian School

 

Panagia Elpida Greek Orthodox Church

Two important Greek Orthodox churches are located in Kumkapı. First is Panagia Elpida (Παναγία Ἐλπίδα), which sits behind a high concrete wall topped with barbed wire. The original church was built in the 16th century, but it burned down in 1680 and was rebuilt with the help of Russian ambassador at the time, Nikita Alexievich. The church burned down again in 1719 and 1762, and was rebuilt both times.

Panagia Elpida Greek Orthodox Church in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Panagia Elpida Greek Orthodox Church

A fourth fire consumed the church in August 1865. For thirty years, the congregation met in a timber structure built within the church grounds. Finally, the cornerstone was laid for the current church on January 4, 1895. It’s considered one of the most beautiful churches in the city, but badly needs restoration.

Panagia Elpida Greek Orthodox Church in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Panagia Elpida Greek Orthodox Church

 

Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church

The second church is Agia Kyriaki (Αγία Κυριακή), which is near Kadırga. It’s arguably the most beautiful of all the Greek churches in Istanbul. The church dates back to at least 1583, when the first recorded reference was made by a representative of the Russian czar who visited it that year.

Entrance to Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church
Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church
Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church

The church was built in the late 19th century by Ottoman Green architect Pericles Photiades. It’s in fairly good condition, and contains a holy spring dedicated to Saint Basil (Αγίασμα Αγίου Βασιλείου). Nowadays, the congregation is mostly made up of Georgian, Romanian, and Ukrainian immigrants living in the neighborhood.

Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church
Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Detail on Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church
Saint Basil Holy Spring

 

Architecture

Along the streets, you’ll also encounter lots of old Ottoman Greek buildings. Many of the magnificent stone structures are not well-maintained and are crumbling away with time. Others have been restored to their past glory.

Ottoman Greek building in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Ottoman Greek building
Ottoman Greek building in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Ottoman Greek building
Ottoman Greek building in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
A crumbling Ottoman Greek building
Restored Ottoman Greek building

 

Kumkapı Square

When tourists visit the neighborhood, they usually only see Kumkapı Square (Kumkapı Meydanı). This square is home to several fish restaurants that come alive at night with a fantastic atmosphere.

Kumkapı Meydanı in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Kumkapı Square

Almost every street surrounding the square is lined with these fish restaurants. Many outdoor tables are tightly packed together along the street. The tables are neatly dressed during the day for the majority of customers visiting in the evenings.

Kumkapı Meydanı in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Kumkapı Square

One word of warning – these fish restaurants have been notorious in the past for ripping people off, both foreigners and Turks alike. Things have changed with people fighting back via online reviews, but the reputation still stands. I have been advised by Turkish friends to this day not to eat in Kumkapı.

Kumkapı Meydanı in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Kumkapı Square
Restaurants at Kumkapı Square

 

Fish Market

Across the busy Kennedy Avenue (Kennedy Caddesi) sits the famous Kumkapı Fish Market. The market is full of stores selling fresh daily catches from the rich seas surrounding Istanbul. The original fish market in the photos below was demolished during construction of the Eurasia Tunnel (Avrasya Tüneli). It was temporarily relocated to Samatya and rebuilt in Kumkapı in 2018.

Kennedy Avenue
Kumkapı fish market in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Old Kumkapı Fish Market
Kumkapı fish market in Kumkapı, Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey
Kumkapı Fish Market

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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