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Once you get your fill of fresh air and stunning Bosporus scenery on the Üsküdar seaside, it’s time to head inland and visit the Üsküdar markets. Follow the main road from Üsküdar Square and you’ll find a bustling area full of colors, sounds, smells, and unique flavors (ask for samples!). It’s also great place for people watching.
Fishermen’s Market
The first market you’ll come to will most likely be the Üsküdar Fishermen’s Market (Üsküdar Balıkçılar Çarşısı). This long corridor is full of stalls selling the fresh catch of the day from the Bosporus, Marmara Sea, and Black Sea.
Just outside the Fishermen’s Market is an attractive fountain built by the local government in 2013. The fountain faces Üsküdar Square.
Mimar Sinan Market
Another market is the Mimar Sinan Market (Mimar Sinan Çarşısı). It was the last hamam ever built by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) in 1583. It was commissioned by Nurbanu Sultan (1525-1583), the mother of Murad III and the wife of Selim II.
The hamam closed in 1917 and all the marble inside was removed and sold. It was purchased by Mehmet Korkut Bey from Komotini, Greece, in 1932. He used it as a carpentry workshop, but rebuilt it as a market in 1962. Today, there are shops inside the market and a square out front full of people. There are often children playing around the fountain while the adults sit on benches and chat away.
Kara Davud Pasha Mosque
Just behind the Mimar Sinan Market is the Kara Davud Pasha Mosque (Kara Davud Paşa Camii). The exact construction date is unknown. It fell into ruins and was repaired in 1817. The mosque was repaired twice more in the 19th century after fires, and again from 1963 to 1966.
Ahmediye Mosque
The Ahmediye Mosque (Ahmediye Camii) is a few blocks south of the Kara Davud Pasha Mosque. It was built between 1721 and 1722 by Emin Ahmed Ağa, an Ottoman shipyard chief. It was repaired in 1861, 1885, and 1965. The mosque was also under renovation when I passed by during my last visit in October 2018.
Sheikh Mustafa Devati Mosque
The somewhat hidden Sheikh Mustafa Devati Mosque (Şeyh Mustafa Devati Camii) sits just north of the market area. It was built between 1645 and 1650 by Mustafa Devati (d. 1660), an Ottoman Jelveti sheikh.
The tomb of Mustafa Devati (Şeyh Mustafa Devati Türbesi) was built in 1657. It was renovated by Fatma Zehra Hanım in 1866. There’s a small Ottoman cemetery on the grounds as well.
Getting Lost
After visiting the attractions, my advice is to get lost in the maze of streets that make up the markets. You never know what you’ll find! Much of it will be fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, and spices, but there are also clothing stores, antique shops, music stores, cafés, and restaurants. Again, ask for samples, try the snacks from the street vendors, and take in all the sights, sounds, and smells.
Most of the photos on this post come from an afternoon wandering around these streets and alleys with a student one day. It turned out to be one of the most memorable days I spent in Istanbul. Here are a few more photos from that day: