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Central Kadıköy (Kadıköy Merkez) will be most people’s first look at the Kadıköy district of Istanbul. This small area near the ferry terminal has a few great restaurants, excellent cafés, and lively markets scattered throughout its bustling pedestrian streets. It’s a fun place to observe daily life in the city.
Wharf
Many people will arrive in Kadıköy via ferry. The wharf is a bustling area with people heading in every direction. It’s a great place for people watching, and you can admire the historic wharf buildings.
Kadıköy Square
The area next to the wharf is Kadıköy Square (Kadıköy Meydanı). In the center is a monument to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) introducing the Turkish alphabet in 1928 as part of his reforms.
Kadıköy Haldun Taner Stage
East of the square is Kadıköy Haldun Taner Stage (Kadıköy Haldun Taner Sahnesi). It was built by Italian architect U. Ferrari between 1925 and 1927 as the first modern produce market building in Istanbul. Unfortunately, nobody wanted to be a tenant and it sat unused for 10 years. It was later used as a fire department and a scrap vehicle depot.
The building was renovated in 1984 and transformed into a cultural center. In 1986, it was allocated to Istanbul University (İstanbul Üniversitesi) as a conservatory. The ground floor was converted to its current use as a theatre in 1989. The theatre is operated by City Theatres (Şehir Tiyatroları) and named after Turkish playwright Haldun Taner (1915-1986).
TESAK
Sitting in a park across the street from Kadıköy Square is the Kadıköy Municipality History, Literature and Art Library (Kadıköy Belediyesi Tarih Edebiyat Sanat Kütüphanesi), or TESAK for short. It was originally built in 1913 as a municipal office building by Ottoman Armenian architect Yervant Terziyan, an assistant to Constantinople-born Italian architect Giulio Mongeri (1873-1953). The building was renovated and reopened as a library on March 15, 2014.
Türkbalon (Permanently Closed)
West of the ferry terminals you’ll notice a huge balloon with Turkish flags on it. This is the Türkbalon. It ascends into the air up to 200 meters for a panoramic view of Istanbul. In all my years in Istanbul, I’ve seen it in the air just once.
Caferağa
Further inland from the park, you’ll find yourself in Caferağa, the heart of Central Kadıköy. Feel free to just explore the few streets parallel to the ferry terminal.
The streets are closed to traffic and full of shops, restaurants (including my favorite – Çiya), fruit, vegetable, and fish markets, bars, cafés, and lots of life. This is one of the treats of living in Kadıköy.
Agia Efimia Greek Orthodox Church
A few historic churches are located just one block in. The first church is Agia Efimia Greek Orthodox Church (Aya Efimia Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). It’s the historic cathedral of Chalcedon and was originally built in 1694. The current building dates back to 1832.
An ancient cathedral once stood on the site but it disappeared around 1555. The Fourth Ecumenical Council took place in that cathedral from October 8 to November 1, 451. It was called by Emperor Marcian and presided over by Anatolius (d. 458), the Patriarch of Constantinople.
Surp Takavor Armenian Orthodox Church
Next is Surp Takavor Armenian Orthodox Church (Surp Takavor Ermeni Ortodoks Kilisesi), which is two blocks south. It was built in 1720 and refurbished in 1814. The church burned down in 1855 and was rebuilt, opening in 1858.
Anatolian Protestant Church
The Anatolian Protestant Church (Anadolu Protestan Kilisesi), made up of a congregation of Turkish Christians, is a few more blocks south. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo.
Sultan Mustafa Port Mosque
There are also two historic mosques in Central Kadıköy. Facing Kadıköy Square is the Sultan Mustafa Port Mosque (Sultan Mustafa İskele Camii). It was built by Sultan Mustafa III in 1760 and rebuilt in 1858 by Sultan Abdülmecid I. The mosque was under renovation during my last two visits.
Osmanağa Mosque
Next is the Osmanağa Mosque (Osmanağa Camii), located a couple blocks inland along busy Söğütlü Çeşme Street. It was originally built in 1612 by Osman Ağa, the Chief Black Eunuch of the Ottoman Harem under Ahmed I, to replace an older mosque that had just burned down. The mosque was renovated by Mahmud II in 1811. It burned down in 1878 and was rebuilt the same year. The plane tree in the courtyard was planted in 1880 by the imam, Mehmed Asım Efendi.
Khalkedon
If you walk down the street towards the wharf from the Armenian church, you’ll notice the word “Khalkedon” spelled out on the path. This pays homage to the ancient roots of Kadıköy, which was founded by the ancient Greeks as Chalcedon (Χαλκηδώνα) in 685 BC.
Nearby Areas
Walking further inland, you’ll be able to explore Moda, the neighborhood I lived in, and Bahariye. To the north is Rasimpaşa, a seedier area with not much to see.