Büyükada

Last updated on December 20, 2023.

The biggest of Istanbul’s Princes’ Islands is Büyükada, which literally translates to “Big Island”. It’s the most frequently visited of the islands and probably has the most attractions.

Town

In the town of Büyükada, once you get off the ferry, you’re immediately in the thick of the action. There are restaurants, cafés, and hotels located in beautiful Ottoman buildings. You an also find several bike rental outlets.

Getting Around

There are electric carriages to get around the island. You can use your Istanbulkart to ride the carriages. If you choose to rent a bike, ask for a map of the island to find points of interest.

In the past, visitors would hire faytons (horse-drawn carriages). Thankfully, they were replaced with electric carriages in early 2020 due to numerous cases of mistreatment of the horses. In the past, especially during summer and on weekends, the queue for the faytons could take up to an hour or more, and the island would also have an unpleasant odor.

Ottoman Homes

In the town itself, you’ll find several beautifully restored (and unrestored) Ottoman homes. Some of them have been turned into boutique hotels and restaurants, such as the Pink Pavilion (Pembe Köşk).

Religious Buildings

Mixed into the neighborhood is the St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church. Many of Istanbul’s Greeks live on Büyükada, which they call Prínkipo (Πρίγκηπο). There’s also a small Jewish population on the island. Unfortunately, their synagogue is behind a huge security fence.

Çankaya/Nizam Street

As you make your way out of town, some of the most impressive homes are located on the outskirts. The main road followed by the faytons, Çankaya Street (Çankaya Caddesi), turns into Nizam Street (Nizam Caddesi). it will take you past most of these homes.

A few to especially look out for are the Mizzi Pavilion (Mizzi Köşkü), Yalman Pavilion (Yalman Köşkü), and Con Pasha Pavilion (Con Paşa Köşkü).

Unity Square

In the center of the island is Unity Square (Birlik Meydanı). From there, there are two paths up different hills. One path leads to the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George (Aya Yorgi), a popular pilgrimage site for both Christians and Muslims.

Greek Orthodox Orphanage

The road up the other hill, İsa Tepesi, leads to two more important sites of Greek heritage. The first one you come to is the dilapidated yet impressive Greek Orthodox Orphanage. It happens to be the second biggest wooden building in the world and the biggest in Europe. It was built in 1898 originally as a hotel and casino, but Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II refused to issue a permit for its use.

The building was purchased by the wife of a Greek banker in 1903, donated to the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, and converted into an orphanage. It was shut down in 1964 and seized by the Turkish government. The property was returned to the Patriarchate in 2010, but it’s in a terrible state of disrepair. Still, it’s a very impressive building that can be admired from near and far.

Christos Monastery

A bit further up the hill is the Christos Monastery, originally built in 1597. It’s a beautiful wooden building and church behind a barbed wire fence. There’s also a small cemetery on the premises.

Walking along the road past the monastery, you’ll find some breathtaking views of the Greek Orthodox Orphanage and Dilburnu, a small cape that juts out from the island.

South Side

If you return to Unity Square and head to the south side of the island, you’ll be surrounded with nothing but a forest, some amazing scenery, and peace and quiet. You won’t encounter too many other people or faytons coming from either direction.

At the very south end of the island is a memorial to Turkish soldiers and police officers who fell as victims to terrorism. There are small plaques for each soldier with their name, photo, rank, and date and location of death.

Greek Cemetery

Heading back to town, on the east side of the island are a few more points of interest. The first one you will come to is a Greek cemetery. It’s typically only open on Tuesdays.

From the road you can see the grave of one of the most famous members of the Greek minority of Turkey, Lefter Küçükandonyadis (Λευτέρης Αντωνιάδης) (1925-2012). Born on Büyükada, he was one of the greatest Turkish footballers of all time, starring for Fenerbahçe and the Turkish national team. When he died in 2012, his funeral filled up Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium. A statue of Lefter was erected outside the stadium in 2009.

St. Nicholas Monastery

A bit further up from the cemetery is the St. Nicholas Monastery, a Greek Orthodox monastery dating from the 16th century. It’s located in a large white building.

Islands Museum

You’ll also pass the Islands Museum (Adalar Müzesi), a small museum about the Princes’ Islands. I haven’t had the chance to visit.

Reşat Nuri Güntekin House

Reaching the outskirts of town once again, two buildings will catch your eye. The first is the home of Reşat Nuri Güntekin (1889-1956). He was a famous Turkish playwright and novelist.

Sabuncakis Pavilion

The second is the Sabuncakis Pavilion (Sabuncakis Köşkü), a Masonic Temple. It was built in 1904 by Yorgi Sabuncakis and is commonly known as the House with Eyes (Gözlü Ev). It was restored in 2010.