Last updated on December 20, 2023.

To the east of the Selimiye area of Üsküdar is the very peaceful Karacaahmet Cemetery (Karacaahmet Mezarlığı). This cemetery is the oldest and largest Ottoman burial ground in Istanbul, founded in the mid-1300s. Over a million people have been buried there.

Karacaahmet Mezarlığı in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Karacaahmet Cemetery
Karacaahmet Mezarlığı in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Karacaahmet Cemetery

 

Ottoman Tombs

Scattered among the modern graves are historical Ottoman tombs. They’re marked with Ottoman Turkish script using Arabic characters.

Karacaahmet Mezarlığı in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Karacaahmet Cemetery

Each Ottoman tombstone tells an important story about the person buried in the tomb. Firstly, tombstones indicated gender. Those of women were decorated with flowers, with a rose for each child the woman had given birth to. The tombstones of men indicated their rank and social status, which was known by the shape and size of the turban.

Karacaahmet Mezarlığı in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Karacaahmet Cemetery

Over time, the style of the tombstones changed. In the later Ottoman period, the name and title of the person, their father’s name, social status, and date of death were written directly on the tombstone.

Karacaahmet Mezarlığı in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Karacaahmet Cemetery

 

Şakirin Mosque

At the north entrance of the cemetery is the Şakirin Mosque (Şakirin Camii), a very modern mosque that opened in 2009. Construction took four years.

Şakirin Camii – photo courtesy of www.camilerveturbeler.com in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Şakirin Mosque – photo courtesy of www.camilerveturbeler.com

The architect was Hüsrev Tayla and the interior designer was Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, who is believed to be the first women to ever design a mosque. The fountain in the courtyard was designed by William Pye.

Courtyard of the Şakirin Mosque
Fountain in the courtyard of the Şakirin Mosque

It’s well worth popping into the mosque to see the innovative interior. The prayer hall has a chandelier with waterdrop-shaped glass globes made by Nahide Büyükkaymakçı.

Şakirin Camii – photo courtesy of www.mimaristil.com in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Prayer hall of the Şakirin Mosque – photo courtesy of www.mimaristil.com

I visited during prayers and sat against the back wall. After prayers, I was welcomed with a smile and a box of lokum and candy from the caretaker and was thanked for visiting. It was a heartwarming experience, especially when compared to mosques in Morocco where I was angrily turned away.

Chandelier of the Şakirin Mosque

 

Tomb of Karaca Ahmet

Just outside the cemetery is the tomb of Karaca Ahmet (Karaca Ahmet Türbesi), an Ottoman warrior who died during the Ottoman conquest of Chalcedon (modern day Kadıköy) and Chrysopolis/Skoutarion (modern day Üsküdar) in the 14th century. He’s regarded as a saint in the Alevi sect of Islam. A small mosque bearing his name sits across the street from the tomb.

Karaca Ahmet Türbesi in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Tomb of Karaca Ahmet

The small admission fee to enter the tomb allows visitors to see Karaca Ahmet’s sarcophagus draped in green along with his cloak sitting inside a glass case.

Karaca Ahmet Türbesi in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Tomb of Karaca Ahmet
Cloak of Karaca Ahmet at Karaca Ahmet Türbesi in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Cloak of Karaca Ahmet

 

Aşçıbaşı Mosque

Near the tomb is the Aşçıbaşı Mosque (Aşçıbaşı Camii) a small wooden mosque that I found interesting. It was built between 1650 and 1652 by Pervane Mehmed Efendi, the chief chef of Sultan Mehmed IV. The mosque was rebuilt by Yıldız Technical University (Yıldız Teknik Üniversitesi) in 1993.

Ahcıbası Camii in Üsküdar, Istanbul, Turkey
Ahcıbası Mosque

 

Getting There

To get to this part of Üsküdar from the European side, first take a ferry to Üsküdar. You can take a dolmuş from Üsküdar to Kadıköy and ask the driver to let you out at Karacaahmet Cemetery.

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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